The consensus is material quality has been going downhill over the years. I really like the look of the 2006+. Regardless, to avoid additional damage you should have someone look over your 9-5, especially in reference to the belts, engine mounts, and looking out for misfires. The first number is the number of faults stored, so 1-21 is one fault, code 21 etc that will cycle through. Check out the category for your car and if it really bothers you, have someone remove the glovebox and side trim, and investigate access to the area is gained in the first steps of this video also I have never seen that many codes. Within the passed 3 months I have replaced the alternator twice, battery, tie rods, coolant pump, serpentine belt and vaccuum hoses for turbo and turbo controller idk the exact name either way a lot of money has been spent in a little amount of time.
My 03 Saab 9-5 linear wagon has a strange creaky noise coming from front of the car on both sides. There may also be a loose connection in the handbrake switch that lets the car know if the emergency brake is engaged. Both can be very expensive to fix and many avoid the 9-5 with 3. She is completely spotless, not a spec of rust or corrosion on anything. Engine Mounts The B235-series engine is able to provide a lot of torque, which can be quite stressful to the engine mounts holding the drivetrain in place. On Oct 19th 05 we were able to get off the hwy in the nick of time, heavy smoke had begun to pour out from under the hood.
Are all the vacuum hoses that connect to the fuel pressure regulator in good shape? Check to make sure the vacuum hoses, specifically around the brake booster and intake manifold, are all attached and not broken. The contact owns a 2001 Saab 9-5. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalls without warning. I have also had many electrical issues with my vehicle including but not limited to the electrical modules for the heat and air conditioning, heated and air conditioned seats not working and many other electrical modules going out. The torque converter, heat exchanger and hoses hold much of the old oil during a typical drain and fill. Or does the buildup continue in a linear fashion over the course of the 3 days you mentioned? Within those 5 minutes thr gearbox functions normally even though warning lights are on but after 5 minutes the problem is back. Both would cause severe performance issues, although a bad crankshaft position sensor would be more likely to cause a no-start.
Also speedometer registered 0 Mph. There is no aftermarket manufacturer of this hose that I know of to fall back on for a possibly more reliable product. Then pick up a tube of conductive epoxy, mask the window off with tape, and reconnect the defroster lines. With that out of the way, if you have a check engine light on with a code, you should procure a code reader and plug it into the port under the steering wheel before doing anything else. As with many things, there isn't really a year of the 9-5 which you should avoid or buy. Where can i find an owner manual and maintenance guide? The location of the pump depends on which car you have. Also smell some exhaust in the cabin.
The idm was the cause of the failures. Are there any specific conditions that you think may cause the fouling? The engine is not usually warm. Have you ever cleaned or replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor? Take a look at the Neutral Safety Switch located on the top of the transmission down below and next to the battery, and have someone wiggle the shifter handle. I bought the aftermarket version first because it was half the price but it only lasted about 3-4 months. A hiccup usually signals misfires, but if you are strictly referencing the smoothness of motion then engine mounts do seem likely. Same thing happened a bit later however before turning off road all went back to normal.
Never had a European car before, have no idea about operation or maintenance. It is located on the right side of the heater box, and is accessible behind the glove box which is simple to remove. What code are you getting exactly? One test is to swap an ignition cassette out with a friends to see if the issue resolves. Your car does require the right set of spark plugs to run correctly. The number on the left is how many errors you have, and the one on the right is the error code currently displayed. Do you have ay suggestion to avoid this to happen again? The issues I listed below will cause a car to run rich.
And then once moving engine runs smooth until accelerator is pushed hard enough for turbo to be fully engaged and then it seems like power kind of hiccups until turbo spools down. I does not appear to be made of stronger metal type materials. Is this a sign of bad subframe bushings or control arm bushings or something else? She also experienced a no start condition. A failed fuel pump can take many forms, but my personal experience was that of a fail-to-start condition outside of a sandwich shop on lunch break. Sometimes letting the engine cool down will allow the sensor to get a good reading once again, and the engine will start. This usually occurs after the car has been sitting for a while or overnight.
Enamel cracked and flacked off of the hood badge on this garage kept car. Clues to a bad throttle body can be surging throttle, especially at idle or in cruise control mode. The catalysts in the pipe are very sensitive, raw gasoline does a lot of damage due to the chemical nature of the device. I do not think it is your key. Check all your main electrical connections for frayed wires or bad grounds. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. If he is good at what he does, he will be able to find the problem by poking around, as although this is a weird one, the problem should appear upon close inspection.
It was out of coolant, and when I added some, it leaked under the turbo. I keep clearing the warning signal, but it keeps recurring. You may have worn Subframe Mounts causing the cabin vibration at idle. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000. .