It, too, is date coded and attached with a black phosphate bolt. Do not steam clean the chassis, floor pan, or engine compartment yet. All the aspects of porting stock as well as aftermarket heads in aluminum and cast-iron constructions are covered. The main obstacle in the removal of the entire front suspension is the torsion bars. Photos on the interior are important, especially the wiring on the back of the dash Figure 9 , cable routing for the heater, insulation placement, etc. Next, remove the pin from the rag joint connecting the column to the steering box. The program, called car2go, would allow registered users to pick up an available Smart, use it for as long as needed, and return it to designated locations in the city.
Be sure to examine your front and rear brakes to see if they are original in appearance and what needs to be replaced or rebuilt. You need a different master cylinder and distribution block. The first step is to press out the shaft from the lower control arm, leaving the rubber bushing in the arm. After that, the unit is ready for assembly. The best way to restore them is to use a micrometer to measure the drum and confirm that it can be turned.
The appearance of these two steering boxes is different and so are the parts to rebuild them. On original glass the date code is the last set of numbers on the bottom line. Step 15: The original spindles were in good enough condition to save. If you have a manual steering box it is natural in appearance. Redi-Strip uses a non-acid alkaline solution that is electrically charged. Wrap the nut and bolt with tape and tighten so as not to mar the finish. I document how the seam sealer on the firewall was applied Figure 7.
Of course, many choose to replace original factory equipment with aftermarket components to improve drivability characteristics, and this is also a worthwhile endeavor. Dropping the entire front suspension, which includes the crossmember with the engine and transmission, all together is actually recommended. To remove the sleeve from the shaft, notch it lengthwise on all four sides and slip it off. You can refer to pictures that show how these components were finished and what colors were used from the factory. These advanced procedures include unshrouding valves, porting a shortside turn from the floor of the port down toward the valve seat, and developing the ideal port area and angle. Step 5: All the nuts and bolts are black phosphate. Notice that the adjuster has small teeth; because the original one was not usable it had to be replaced with a new one.
The whole time I am photographing and making notes Figure 10. This way you can disassemble each component and strip them to the bare metal, replace any worn parts, and refinish to the original condition. Finally, remove the four nuts connecting the column to the dash. I also make diagrams of major areas of the car and detail the bolt-head marks that are used at every point Figure 2. You can upgrade the feel and response to a quicker and tighter response. Two additional U-clips hold the right and left cable to the frame bracket. We look forward to doing business with you.
Step 12: On late-1970 cars an additional sleeve can be found on the bushing. The rear end assembly comes out significantly easier, and requires the use of two jack stands and a good floor jack. The right bar has one stripe and the left bar has two. These reproduction splash shields are not galvanized like the originals, but they are painted black and will look original when mounted on the car. Removal and reassembly is not difficult. You are also shown how to build a high-quality flow bench at home so you can test your work and obtain professional results. Step 14: Completely strip and paint the K-member.
You can find inspection marks on the bar about 6 inches from the front of the bar. A word about paint stripping and derusting: A lot of chemical stripping shops use a heated muriatic also known as hydrochloric acid solution to strip metal. Just be sure to use semi-gloss to create the original finish. That in itself could be one of the main reasons for the rarity of these cars. Click the thumbnail to see the cover full-size. This helps to validate their originality. Step 5: The internal components of this unit are in really good shape and can be blasted and refinished correctly.
Step 10: These are the upper control arm bushings after removal with a cold chisel and a cut-off wheel. Orange springs and all-new hardware complete the assembly. I remove the hood, bumper, grille, and front fenders. That is not a problem because they were painted black from the factory. Step 2: This galvanized dust shield and original brake hose have been painted black. There the single cable goes into a double clip where the right and left emergency cables attach and then goes back to the brake assemblies.
Document the plating on the headlamp buckets. After complete disassembly, cleaning, and blasting, you have two options for replacement bushings: original rubber or polyurethane. Notice that on this car the upper arm is painted black. The original has been replated. If you have a power steering unit it is painted black and the steering column is shorter than the manual unit. Upon the vehicle being lowered over the powertrain and engine crossmember on the assembly line, the torsion bars were slid through their rearward perches on the mid-crossmember and fitted into the hexangular reliefs in the lower control arm pivot shafts.
They come packaged in a large box with a slight bend in the middle for shipping. Let it dry for several days and then spray with a matte-finish clear to seal the Cosmoline. Step 4: Here is what you can find when you open up the brake drum. Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:00:00 -0800 With Smart's U. To truly restore the car, every part has to be returned to its original state. . Then the car can be lifted and the entire assembly can be moved into place and attached without any damage to the freshly painted car.