October 19, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: The head, block, or gasket may be damaged. Am getting coolant in the oil. This is the most accurate way ti be sure. Then a few bolts, 11mm iirc. It should pop pretty easily. The bolts head are torx bits and use a e14 socket.
Not just the standard timing tools, but camshaft bearing cap alignment tools, etc. Its underneath the intake where the injecter plug is held. Be careful not to loose the oil pressure check valve that in a hole in the block. Your pistons were lowered in the cylinders. Very easy to do and really saves the strain on the back. After you finish the sequence you turn each bolt 90 degrees 15 minutes on a clock face.
If the engine was highly contaminated with coolant, try changing the oil three times within the first 50 miles to flush any remnants of the coolant out of the system. E: Camshaft position sensor O-ring. We checked two spark plugs that seemed ok. I lifted mine off but help would make this much easier. Next unbolt the intake support bracket in the middle of the valve cover. From there the head can be lifted off, it shouldn't need any wiggling or hammering. That is the only way to be sure it is lined up.
I can't figure it out. Head gasket was blown and head warped. Once those are unbolted, you should be able to push the manifolds out of the way. This would also mean more new parts instead of relying on old parts, and result in a more reliable repair. With more than 34,000 repair solutions for cars and commercial vehicles you can be sure Febi has you covered.
Connect the battery and fire it up. February 2, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: You will have to unbolt the manifolds. Went back together great and timed perfectly. If its got into the oil its not good Thanks for clearing this matter up. Step 9: Undo the two wire harness clips underneath the t-body. As best as I can tell, this is primarily to keep the pistons from moving up in the cylinders and banging into a valve when the head is coming off and going on. This is what I did at least.
Will a regular socket not fit in the area between the cam and the head wall, to loosen the head bolts. I cut the small fuel lines knowing I would be replacing these. Then lower the head gently onto the block making sure the alignment nipples go easily into their holes. I only found 8 first time and wondered why the head didn't come off. You can disasemble it to clean it but its not critical. Price is for one lifter one per valve. I would expect it closer to 150.
It is sticking to the sides of everything and it comes off when scraping it with an old sharpened tooth brush, but i am afraid the radiator is probably stuffed it was leaking water from the expansion bottle so i assume a new radiator is on the list of things to replace together with new thermo and waterpump last two items were recently replaced? Make sure none of the lifters fall out of the ledge as you reinstall it onto the cylinder head. Do u think there ok. Oil them to get them to slide into their holes. Do I put anti-seize, seal-tite, or oil on the bolts threads for the Flange for the heater core? Use whatever motor oil you plan to use when you refill the car. Kit includes a set of 24 springs. February 17, 2018 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes. There's a black rubber bung, take that out, and place in the other half of the tool.
Step 12: Unplug the main Fuel Injector Plug. Then clean each one with the drill and brush. I would have this done if the motor was over heated. I assembled everything according to the procedures. This history is self evident in the quality and vast amount of applications they service. Just loosen them, no need to remove the nuts.
November 27, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Cyl 1 is the front cylinder. On my 1993 there was no main harness disconnect. Dont use the fuel rail to pry off the injectors. And thats all because of car security alarms which flashes all the time. Remove the coolant and the crank case vent first, unbolt the throttle body but you should be able to leave the evap hose on.