The original brand was Cardone. I am not sure how to interpret the data I'm getting. Has any manufacturer advertised to not use their product? Is it possible that the maf I bought went bad over night??? Careful removing the valve from the expensive hoses, a cracked hose will mean plenum removal to replace! That's how i'm driving my car back and forth. It also hesitated on acceleration, had some shifting issues, and it did seem like running the ac helped some. And I can control the voltage with the amount of vacuum I let slip into the intake.
Other than that the car runs fine on the road, except at idle. . So then again I barely drive the car back to my house and I put my old Maf in and my car now works like before. Watch for fast transision from high to low volts. And is it possible that the second one was bad out of the box??? I decided to take matters into my own hands at that point.
I disconnected my remote start from the car and guess what?? It is situated under the throttle body and may need replacement if the idle speed is hunting. It drives great sometimes and my gas mileage in town is still about the same 15-16mpg. Can the fuel pressure regulator still be the problem? I disconnected the vacuum line at the fuel press regulator and the rpm goes up when I do that. This was literally a 20 dollar repair. My Long trim Fuel is pretty much all the time at between -20 and -25 or around there except under very hard acceleration when it increases to almost positive levels. .
The reason the car runs ok when cold is that its ignoring the 02 sensor until it comes up to temp and goes closed loop. Is it possible that the maf I bought went bad over night??? Set the scale on the meter to read 1-5 volts. And is it possible that the second one was bad out of the box??? I also noticed the long and short fuel trim get closer to normal while cruising and the short trim is very bad -25% at idle only. So if I record live data, what should I do? Tomorrow I'm receiving the other brand Maf and I'm going to exchange it again. If you can wipe off residue the maf is dirty. There is no engine light or anything on while the car is running.
The bad idling is intermittent but is much worse if the car has been sitting in the Florida sun for a few hours. While continuing down the diagnostic check list I drained down the coolant enough to pull the thermostat out. I was driving on the interstate with the air going and my rpm's started jumping and car started shaking, when I turned the air off everything was fine. Exercise the solenoid with 12 volts to check function. If it runs fine then maybe bad maf. I reset the check engine light and with my old maf it doesnt come back on.
My car is idling so badly that sometimes it just shuts off altogether. Does the car run ok at wot? Here is a quick history of my car: 2000 sentra 1. Sprayed carb cleaner in, a really cleaned the connector, rubbed the metal tabs down a little, used bulb grease and made sure the connection was tight. I don't have a fuel pressure tester, but I'll try to get one. The thermostat was stuck ever so slightly open. I like the if in doubt take it out.
Per Dennis' instructions, I did not soak it. This isn't a part that gets dirty usually, and malfunctions with it are normally reported by the computer fairly well. Checked for vacuum leaks by smoke testing. When the alternator load is heavy this might be 20%, when the engine is loaded in a low speed parallel park this might add 20%. The reason the car runs ok when cold is that its ignoring the 02 sensor until it comes up to temp and goes closed loop.
Still no check engine light on. Should I disconnect them one by one and see what happens? The optimum value stored in the is determined by takig into consideration various engine conditions, such as during warm up, deceleration, and engine load air conditioner, power steering and cooling fan operation. I was getting late for work so I try to drive the car and I could not get the car at a higher speed than 30-35mph. Is it normal to have the fuel cutoff when I'm in P or N? The voltage should rise to 4 volts without jumping, or erratic needle movement. In park or neutral you get fuel cut off at higher rpms due to no load on the engine. At least now I know not to ever ever buy a nissan again. I am still running very rich and the o2 voltages are steady on all 4 o2 sensors at around 0.
You don't need to test post o2 as they are only used to testing the cat operation; not fuel deliery. And also my exhaust smells like when a vehicle it just started, even if I just drove it for 30 mins, so I think its running rich. Also here the temperature doesnt drop in the night below 50 degrees. I want to post the live data here, maybe you guys can help me. In park or neutral you get fuel cut off at higher rpms due to no load on the engine. But I needed to get to school and the company van wasnt always available to me, so I upped the idle by loosening the screw to keep the revs up. I got another Maf from the parts store after work, and with this same thing.
Had very similiar problems a few weeks ago. This problem appears even when the car is in P park! Cold starting is also perfect, I only have to crank it for like a second to start when the engine is cold. My problem has to be the Maf, right? Which leads me to believe you have a bad o2. So I went and bought a maf from Kragen Auto, my cost 250 + core. Could see the brushed aluminum housing inside perfectly. Is that code reader going to be able to pinpoint the problem? Note the car may stall when you unplug the maf; if it does disreguard the test as it means nothing diagnostically.