You have to detach the drain tube … ,there will be some coolant spillage then disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes these are right by the firewall, near the manifold, we broke mine, junk plastic. There are likely four yes 4 of them, two to a side, and they are all different. Check our article section for step-by-step. Also, make sure that the coolant mixture is near 50-50. Access is from there and from below the dash, take care not to do any damage to the temp control linkag … e behind the glove box there is a rod that is held on by small plastic arms that can easily break.
Interestingly, numerous aspects go into the structuring of an automobile. Remove the cover and then remove bolts holding in heater core. The dash should pivot back to access wire harnesses. A water-to-air heat exchanger in a heater core supplies heat to the passenger compartment air stream. It is located behind the glove box which has to be removed. Don't forget to reservice your radiator fluid and havew your air conditioner reservice. You will see what I am talking about, if necessary Install the new board using the original screws and reinstall the plug.
Part of it goes through the firewall so look at the middle of the floor and follow it up, its behind the sound insulation. Disconnect heater hoses from heater core. Amazing, now you can finally see the housing for the heater core. Remove the center console, if you have one. Disconnect the the rod from the programmer to the blend air door by squeezing the plastic connector and pulling it out of the arm. Check the purge line - the hose that comes to the top of the expansion tank.
Disconnet the heater hoses at the firewall. There is a small diameter hose coming from near the top of the coolant tank,this is the purge line. This past weekend a buddy and I attempted … this chore and nearly quit twice. Remove the pump hoses with gently pulling. I replaced mine three times before realizing the thermostat was causing overpressure and apparently the heater core gives up first. Disconnect this and the resistor is left on the box.
If you have an airbag there, I suggest asking a mechanic on what to do next. Remove glove box attaching screws, then the glove box. Drop the steering column onto the drivers seat, unplug all the wiring harnesses to the brake switch, 60 way connector, fuse panel,and all other connectors for airbags, … turn signals etc etc. Access is from there and from below the dash, take care not to do any damage to the temp control linkag … e behind the glove box there is a rod that is held on by small plastic arms that can easily break. Installation is the reverse of removal.
The purge line is designed to purge air out of the cooling system. I flushed it until the water was clear and replaced the fluids with new antifreeze; after that my heater worked. Sounds easy but it can be a lot of work but it is a lot easy than pulling your entire dash. When you do it yourself, you'll see why. If it doesn't, follow the tubing to where it attaches to a bolt - use a 15mm deep socket and take off the bolt. Its a pain to get it out with the covers, you need to take it out at an angle, same with putting it in. Sorry my english, im not the best in this language! If the hose is clear, check for blockage at the nipple on the tank.
One of the worst engines ever built in my book. There may be air trapped in the system. For any air-conditioned car, car heater cores are usually vital equipments. You can call a ford service shop, most mechanics will be helpful in telling you what to do. Do you have antifreeze in it? This is controlled by the rear passengers not the driver. Flushing out the coolant at close intervals may also help if the replacement is not a matter of consideration for you.
Remove the glove box and the sound insulator panel below the right side of the dash. Installation is the reverse of removal. It takes a couple of hours. With the engine idling,pull the purge line from the tank,if there is no coolant flow from this small hose,it is blocked and this will cause overheating. Remove the plug using a small, flatblade screwdriver to release the latch.