With 12 V applied to pin 1 with pins 2, 3, and 4 grounded, the cable should start retracting. If the speedometer and the cruise control both do not work then you have found your problem with the speed sensor. In time, they can become brittle and then disintegrate falling in pieces and leaving a hole in the brake or clutch pedal shafts where they used to be attached. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing, but the cause of the failure could not be determined. The sensor circuit works on pins 3 and 6, and has the same operating voltages as the Q45.
But that fuse runs other things, so I expect you would know it if it had blown. If your actuator passes the electrical test then you are basically down to two possibilities. Resistance readings from 8 to 9 5-45 ohm , 8 to 10 approx 65 ohm , and 8 to14 approx 65 ohm. More updates once it gets a little warmer. When the grounds are disconnected then the cable should extend. Those again must be the same on the Q45.
There is nothing that directly says these parts are interchangeable. The clock spring is not available separately and comes as part of the combination switch assembly which also includes the wiper and turn signal stalks. That statement is a marketing statement, and is only partially true. Does everything I have written above indicate a bad sensor? Looking at older posts there seem to be no real conclusions on how the problems were fixed. The actuator and valves within it are nothing more than a vacuum pump supplying vacuum to the cable mechanism when needed.
You will need the part number of the old module however if you are searching for a used one. Tests Power at Control Unit — Key - On, Connector connected — terminal 3 ground to 4, should be 12V Power between 3 ground and 5 with clutch and brake pedals released should be 12 V. So I proceeded to step 2 check harness for open circuit 1. These are short thin pins with plastic tips on them that are in colors. If they are, then an electrical test of the switches of the function of the switches will need to be made.
Checked the other ones related to cruise control as well - they all check out ok. If either one does not pass the test it is either faulty or it needs to be adjusted so that the plunger is fully pushed in by the stopper pad for that switch. Probably going to be an expensive fix. Anyone here know the differences in the radars between the 2 vehicles? They are easy to push in the wire or in the rear of the harness connector and I always used the pins with the black tops for ground wires which helped keep things straight with the multi-meter. Then using needle nosed pliers squeeze the tab until you can make it fit into the pedal shaft hole, while the pedal is depressed. The cable simply would not retract even though the vacuum pump was running.
No dice So after about 2 hours of messing around and trying to find this connector, I gave up and it started snowing. Or what if I just disconnect the radar sensor connector? Power between 3 ground and 8 input to ecu - key on, connector connected, should be 0V. The acs control module was replaced as well as the actuator and a relay with no success. Is this the one that's on the cruise unit in the engine bay? If the fuse is good you might as well go ahead and replace the horn relay. They do not show sensors from any other vehicle in their list, so sensors from other Infinitis are not considered interchangable. And I do get power at pin 1. A little while ago my cruise control went out on my 2007 Xterra.
If the stoppers are missing they need to be replaced or some other form of fix needs to be made to plug the holes in the pedal shafts. You can check for 12 volts at pin 1 on the sensor connector just to be 100% sure the sensor is getting power. The picture shows the numbers on the connector that goes to the actuator. With either pedal pushed in — should be zero V. You will have to remove the air bag module and pull the steering wheel and steering column covers make sure you disconnect the battery cable and wait 10 minutes before servicing the air bag.
However, I cannot get connector 140 that is attached to the radar to come off!!! If it does not illuminate it could be a burned out bulb but it could also mean that 12v is not getting to the control module and you can then proceed to the electrical tests to determine which the case is. The specs ohms resistance and the test for that circuit on the Q45 must be the same. They do look the same. Replacing this relay also enabled the second of the two cruise control lights on the dash to illuminate when the cruise control stalk was flicked which was not formerly the case. Code 103 is essentially telling you if that circuit tests ok, you need to replace the laser sensor.
With key out, I got a 0 resistance reading between pins 5 and 14 on connector 158 white color connector at the controller in the trunk. It and comes on when cruise lever is pushed down and the module is getting power. The various tests and specs will match up. For panel removal look here, p. The shop recommended replacing the clock spring to solve both issues. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. But don't specifically say this part is interchangeable anywhere.