Noticed the overflow tank for the Antifreeze was bone dry. So, you can drain and flush your cooling system and fill it with whatever you want and as long as follow the recommendations for that coolant it should work just as well as any other coolants. I am past warranty, so from that perspective, I am not concerned. If you're adding coolant or replacing it without flushing the system, it is important mixing dissimilar additives could lead to undesirable consequences - sedimentation, jelling, etc. Note the last warning about water wetters and other cooling system additives.
Mopar Parts Giant has you covered no matter what type of Mopar vehicle you drive. I know there are different ratings just as there is with engine oil, etc , so my thinking is as long as it meets a preferred rating level, then I should be fine. Also found a post on here with someone having the same issue with the heater blowing cold air and the solution was most likely they were low on antifreeze. Guess I got lucky and didn't buy the expensive water one. But antifreeze suppliers caution against mixing different types. If it matters, I do not plan to drain the system.
If you're adding coolant or replacing it without flushing the system, it is important mixing dissimilar additives could lead to undesirable consequences - sedimentation, jelling, etc. If you overfill the expansion tank, the coolant will simply spill on the ground. The use of lower quality water will reduce the amount of corrosion protection in the engine cooling system. If it matters, I do not plan to drain the system. The diagram listed above is for your reference. It's ok as a temporary solution, but a permanent solution depends on the concentration of antifreeze you have right now. So, when you see antifreezes in the auto store, most of them you have no idea what type of antifreeze it is or if its compatible with the other antifreeze.
Use of propylene glycol-based engine coolant antifreeze is not recommended. But antifreeze suppliers caution against mixing different types. The water company has purged the lines i. Likely they are the same, just dyed different colors, the branding thing. The smartest thing to do is just not mix them. Follow the Manufacturer's Instructions for the mixture ratio. It's been a long time since I dealt with this and I'm no mechanic.
I picked it up a couple of months ago after I saw I was getting low on coolant. In my first post I mentioned distilled water. Then last night driving home I noticed the engine heat gauge go above the halfway mark which is not normal. Our water is pretty darn good, no need for distillation for drinking or vehicle use. Torquelover, I run lake Michigan straight in 8 vehicles and our boat that is open cooled. I know there are different ratings just as there is with engine oil, etc , so my thinking is as long as it meets a preferred rating level, then I should be fine.
I would suspect that Chrysler has done exactly the same thing with their coolant. We're in a new development and have some issues with rust in the water. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Low coolant in the system will cause the symptoms you described. If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
Also, anyone have a guess as to how much I'll need? Biggest worry for me is to be found on side of road with hood up. This will be harmful to any animal stupid enough to drink it, bu … t it will not hurt your car in any way. Change the oil at least every 3,000 miles. Biggest worry for me is to be found on side of road with hood up. Though many contain ethylene or proplyene glycol the corrosion and rust inhibitors vary greatly from type to type. Arctic Blend® G-Plus antifreeze is dyed yellow so it can be used to top off any antifreeze without causing a color change.
If you are worried about the right coolant, then you should also worry about the right water to use in the system. Seems no one here has the Zerex-G05 either. I have an Auto Zone on the corner and figured I'd just walk there so I don't heat up the engine. We have not heard of any horror stories of bad things happening inside a cooling system when different types of coolants are intermixed. If it loses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed coolant solution.
I ran the Original Green in my 2002 for a couple of years with no problems. The trend now days is low to no silicates and for the coolants to last for 5 years. You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. I'm going to put in a whole house filter soon to get around this until things clear up. Most modern cars will reach coolant temps higher than the 212 during summer operations. Of course water itself not only can freeze and, during expansion, crack things like your engine block, but also it boils too quickly 212 deg.
Well some manufacturers do use the same thing. Obviously, a small amount of water will not greatly change that mix, but over time could throw it off. Depending on type and size of internal cooler, length and inside diameter of cooler lines, or use of an auxiliary cooler, these figures may vary. That's where it all started. Anyone have any good results? Water: Why take a chance on tap water although that may be what you get if done at a repair shop? So the manufacturers came up with their own long life anti-freezes, the problem is, they're all different.