Stock brake lines are made out of rubber and can flex when being used hard giving the pedal a squishy feeling. As long as the spoke is in the right or wrong place then you should be able to I have inspected mine before with wheel on, and have about 4-5mm on my rears at present. This recirculates the fresh fluid back to the reservoir and any bubbles will get worked out. Carefully clean around the reservoir before you open it, as you do not want any dirt or debris getting into it. If you do not want to listen to me that is fine.
First thing you need to do is get the car up on jack stands and the front wheels removed. Coilovers: Are exactly what they sound like, Coil springs and shocks in one package. Even still, try to avoid opening the bleeder unless you're bleeding the brakes and getting fluid out. Then open the bleeder screw to let the fluid out. Securely rest the car on jack stands before getting under the car - never get under a car if it's being supported by only a hydraulic floor jack. I'll be careful with the dealer.
If you snake the tubing end into the hollow handle it'll hold the tube and let you see fluid movement. If you ignore the warning lamp, you may indeed get to the point of metal on metal contact, where the metal backing of the pads are contacting the brake discs. If you are interested in upgrading to either go faster, sit lower or sound better, this guide will give you some general direction. Do this a few times after there's no air in the lines. And the whole lot ignores the advice from the experts here to pressure bleed the system. Open the bleeder and the fluid will come out by itself. So yes, it is time to change your brake fluid.
Number 5 doesn't mention closing off the bleed nipple during pumps, let alone when. When siphoning out the fluid from the reservoir, i assume i shouldnt completely empty the reservoir which will probably be impossible anyway that way will prevent needing to touch the clutch circuit. If they cannot cross reference the part number because they're systems don't support factory part numbers then a quick call to the dealership parts department giving them the part number, and asking them the specs on the rotor will get the Autozone parts guy the information he needs to hopefully get you the correct part. Upgrading to a stiffer rubber or polyurethane bushing allows for less movement in the bushing meaning that motion is being transferred to the road or the proper suspension parts, thus increasing the performance and traction of your suspension. The number that's zoomed is the part number of the actual rotor.
Pictured below is an example. Not applying the parking brake can result in poor braking. Next, use a large C-clamp yellow arrow and one of the brake pads red arrow and compress the piston green arrow back into the caliper. A hand vacuum pump is an essential garage tool but if you're buying it just for the brakes, spend a little more and get a pressure bleeder. The fill plug is on the front left side of the transmission case while the drain plug is on the bottom by the dog bone. Keep suction applied whenever the bleeder nipple is opened so there is no backflow.
I have also been using the Synpower Brake fluid with great results 0 sytem problems. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure whatever you use is clean; you do not want any contaminants getting into the fluid. Disconnect the hose from the tank and thread the cap ring you just removed from the car onto the hose. Don't get too wrapped up for the 40K its just one big filter change.
I really appreciate your comments. I would suggest that you read over your owners manual and determine exactly what is required for your vehicle at this time and mileage to prevent the dealership from performing unneeded maintenance and charging you unnecessarily for it. You should also always use the parking brake when parking. I have read that the inner pad usually wears quicker so I assume it would be lower. If a drop falls onto your paint, stop and dab the drop off, then wipe the paint clean with a damp towel. If you have ramps or a lift, it's easier to get to the brake bleeder nipple. However, it should be bled differently if you are bleeding it manually, and this is why.
The sequence Meershm stated is correct. I'll give this vacuum kit a go. Any and all information presented on this website is superseded by the official service manual and is not a substitute for the services or advice of a certified professional mechanic. The rotors are current at 25mm, so I'm trying to determine if they're relatively new, or need to be replaced. If the tube is not clean, the brake fluid must be discarded! It is pretty obvious when you pull the battery cover and the dust is undisturbed. All you do is open the bleeder nipple and lead the nipple hose to a waste container.