The camshaft will not come out of the block until the distributor drive gear has been removed. The softness of the rope prevents damage to the piston. Everything went back together as easily as it had come apart - then it came time to change the handbrake cable. Correct valve face angle is 45 degrees. You must before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.
Refit the overdrive to the adaptor. Quite apart from the difficulty of measuring the torque which needs a it has been found in practice that this process can destroy the spacer. Check the operation of the reverse plunger, reverse light switch and the overdrive isolation switch. For most amateur engine rebuilders it is best to rely on the machine shop to refurbish the cylinder head in whole. If you see worn or flat lobes then it will need to be replaced. The rad does not need to come out unless you have very big hands that don't fit the tight spaces.
But if it stays with the axle end, then instead of adding a gasket or sealant between the cap and the casing, add them between the sides of the bearing outer and the casing and cap, which will increase the clamping force not reduce it. If the spacer were not used these radii would interfere and the face of the bearing would not be right up against the shoulder. Clamped the nut with an adjustable wrench to stop it spinning and put a small jack underneath so I could bear down on the bolt head from above. This, for sure, is the case with engines, but there are lots of things an engine can tell you when you disassemble it for rebuild, if you look for them. Knock back the bearing nut's lockwasher tab and fit tool 18G 49 to the nut. August 2014: To replace just the seals the hub is removed as before. None is shown in factory documentation, but people have said they have had leaks from the flange joint and have added a gasket or sealant.
Then the felt seal is history and a modern lip seal is used. There are a couple of drive belts to be taken off as well which are more than a bit fiddly. You should apply thread sealant to the bottom end threads on the studs to prevent fluid from weeping up around the threads. Trying to make some progress on the 1275 this weekend -- I'd like to get it fully stripped over the next few days. Remove the four bolts that go through the back-plate, axle end-cap and axle casing. Update July 2010: Another more 'engineered' method read somewhere is to get two long bolts with nuts - the 'pullers more accurately 'pushers'. Retain shell by screwing guide bolts onto the connecting rod.
Wheels and tyres must be excluded as they could have run-out to a certain extent. However some time after going through the above process I heard about plugs with a hex socket i. At that point I decided to try removing Vee's level plug, but immediately noticed that the head of the bolt went all the way into the socket of course, which meant the socket was hard up against the diff cover and my modified bolt wasn't being pressed into the level plug drive hole. The third motion shaft lock washer tabs fit into the recessed nut. A good impact wrench should shift it.
Removing thrust bearings Camshaft and Distributor Remove the distributor, distributor plate on the block, and the distributor drive gear. If you add a gasket or goo at the flange then you will reduce this clamping force, and the bearing could turn in the housing. Third motion shaft dismantling described on page E4. The alternator moved and the belt was damaged I'm now thinking it has damaged the crankshaft pulley as well. Here is a couple of images Robert Bob Midget Turbo the otherside Robert Bob Midget Turbo It wont be the same but just in case it helps, a couple of weeks ago I replaced the crankshaft pulley on my frogeye bugeye. Actually it was as helpful to hold the crank while using a torque wrench as much as it was to get the nut off in the first place. On that car the only way was to remove rad and jack up the engine to get access.
The normal height of the valve stem above the outer valve spring seat surface of the head is 47 mm 1. Elimanitng the chance of loose rivets and the lip seal alone make this a worthwhile improvement. G Goeppner Bob, I personally would not trust to screws and nuts. If it is only necessary to remove the selector forks and rods, this can be done by following the above procedure from the heading 'Overdrive and adaptor' without removing the gearbox from the engine. April 2014 I've no experience with this type of axle but there have been periodic questions about the special octagonal nuts and how to remove them.
November 2016 A superb explanation of how a differential works. Both mine had corroded, so I filed the corrosion off the outside with a rasp to make refitting to the new rubber easier. Concrete or tarmac usually has too coarse a surface texture to be able to mark points to the millimetre, but I have my which have a very smooth painted steel surface. A friend mecanic did the job for me. A quick scrape up there with a screwdriver soon sorted that. Moss carries manuals for your car, and I highly recommend you purchase one.
To repeat on your own peril. Refit the distance piece and a new lockwasher, and then tighten the nut with 18G 391. Lift the back-plate out of the way - or clamp the flex hose and disconnect the pipe from the slave to remove the back-plate altogether. I hung a 600 lb toque wrench once up with my carburetter tools. Overdrive and adaptor Undo the six retaining bolts and remove the remote control assembly. Early afternoon on day 1 saw everything off the car except the handbrake cable with the short brake pipe being the only part that was damaged during removal.