My white flap was broken off. Sorry I missed out the information of the title. One of them looks to be a solenoid valve for what could be a vics system. Found it today, thinking this was the reason why i am only hitting 8lbs of boost. I have tried to read some of the other threads. In most cases, that resistance level must fall below 0. If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders i.
I have tried to read some of the other threads. I have not swapped out my intake yet. I would start with the mass air flow sensor this can cause all these issues. I have both the P2009 and P2006 codes. Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly. This would be the next step. Just remove the actual flappers, and either leave the rod, or remove the rod completely and have the hole welded shut.
The 3's wire colors match what the 6 has on the vac solenoid so this write up should work on both cars then. If we have a manifold like this. Found it today, thinking this was the reason why i am only hitting 8lbs of boost. The actuator I pionted out in the first set of pics kind of burryed behind everything looks to be the same as the one on the left side of this pic. And yes I have thrown the P2006 and P2009 codes. The white one is the solenoid that controls the secondary intake shutter valve. This would need to be checked next.
I checked into this last year for whoosh. Only 8 pounds of boost? Is there anything else that I should be concerned about? Mine just sound deeper for about ten seconds, but not anything I'd classify as lopey or about to stall. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. Just about any 1~3 amp diode will work just fine. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.
Other people think theres something wrong with your car and shit. I have not looked under the hood closely, but would be surprised if both systems were implemented. Outside of the range even a wideband O2 can measure. As much as that manifold costs, I'd expect them to cut off the port, weld the hole closed and grind it down before they powdercoat. Use a digital volt ohm meter to: check for 12 volts at the heater circuit feed hint: unplug the sensor and check at the wiring connector to do this measurement check the ground circuit for continuity measure the resistance of the heater circuit done on the sensor itself measure the resistance and voltage of the wiring Refer to a service manual for the correct specifications volts, ohms for your vehicle.
I've actually never seen anyone get that code before. On some Toyota vehicles this code is triggered when the resistance of the heater circuit is below 0. I had the vato-zone kid reset it, and it has not come back on yet. But is that really what we want? But nobody has dynoed the difference with a turbo setup. The relays coil being wired in elimiates P2009, and the connections to the pluger mimic the action of the switch on the pluger getting rid of the P2006. I've found pieces here and there, but nothing complete.
I see in these posts its a mod for emissions. Aug 15, 2011 had the same on my girlfriends car. So are the starts just rough idle? Same part tho, if you're in the junkyard searching around either one will work. Car drives fine, no issues that I was aware of. It also has a Y connector going to another switch of some type. This way it all still works but there are no flaps. You could probably just go down to a stereo shop and buy a starter kill relay, the wire colors might be different, but it will still work.
If you want a new one, they're semi cheap and you can replace it yourself in 5 min with no tools. I never saw more than 187 whp, out of my '01 on the dyno. Mitsubishi symbols on a couple of components. Is this the items that controls the variable intake thing we've talked about on this forum? Aftermarket sensors can be less reliable and of poorer quality not always, but more often. Is there anything else that I should be concerned about? Just need to re tune. Just need to re tune. The computer thinks everything is there so it doesn't throw any codes.
The only code that's ever popped up is an overboost code. It appears to be affected by a vacuum actuator below the throttle body hard to see. This just popped up on my car this evening. Anyone have experience with this? The part that confused me was on the plunger. Anyone else want to speculate? Other than that the car started right away and ran.
The green one is the exact same solenoid, but it controls something else. Essentially this P0051 code means that the resistance of the heater circuit is lower than normal. I hope this helped remember to rate and comment this answer. I can confirm tonight if you need me too. Not sure what the switch does yet. The only code that's ever popped up is an overboost code.