Shop online, find the best price on the right product, and have it shipped right to your door. Generally i replaced the following. We strive to engineer this connection into each and every one of our cars. Yep, by the exact amount I removed the shims to get 0. Like most Miata owners, I'm not a professional mechanic, just a car enthusiast and part-time, week end, shade tree mechanic. This sits in the front of the tranny and prevents the input shaft bearing from backing out of the bell housing as you lower the gear train into it and then have to pound away to push the input shaft and gear train into the bell housing.
As I pulled the clutch hub apart I found two pieces of the synco in places it was not supposed to be. Roll pins that have hundreds of heat cycles on them get week. Front seals get hard and aften tear on reassembly even though they look poerfectly good. Make sure the bell housing bearing is completely seated. Upon reassembly the may fall out!!! I even asked the price on a few parts and it came shipped at a lower price. Just looking at the gears they look fine no signs of abuse.
In some cases we can provide good used parts, these parts are inspected at the factory, give us a call 800-216-1632 and let us save you some money! I tried fabricating a puller with flat metal, instead of angle iron and it didn't work. I broke two larger ones and good ones too! That's simple, the 1st time I did this I used the flat part of the 2x4 against the bell housing and the pressure of pushing against the input shaft broke the 2x4! I pulled the case apart and just have the gear set now sitting on the bench. The front of the tranny is also the bell housing. After you remove the snout and remove a snap ring, you have to push the input shaft and entire gear train out the back of the bell housing. Rod's manual suggests you use a hub puller, along with the long bolts removed from the tranny's mid-section. · Workbench - Like I said above you'll need a big, clean, well lit work area and workbench. After the installation, I drove around a little bit, everything feels great.
Things I did not replace were oil seals and all the bearings. Circlips that fling off like this are lost to this world and wind up in a parallel universe. In the check-out notes field, list any custom features or additions that you want powder coating, polishing, special bend angle, extension, fluid, boots, knobs, consoles, etc. I purchased a thin chisel then set about grinding it to fit into the key slot. The tranny has 90,000 miles and one season of racing. If you have a hub puller or can rent or borrow one you'll be hours ahead of where I was. I like the vibration, the crispness, the metallic sound, the heat, and of course the short shift.
Take bearing s in hand to the bearing house. Replaced entire clutch, various bearings and seals. Mazda has a special tool for this. In one of the last steps in the assembly the tranny you're supposed to turn the bell housing upside down, in order to insert the gear train into. There are several excellent repair manuals that can take you through a total rebuild, complete with pictures and details. It just takes time and lots of hard, sweaty work. Let's look at the other required tools and what they'll be used for.
This clearly was why I was having problems getting it into reveres. Have the dealer or a shop repair it. Use plastic bags, sealed, and marked with indelible ink. To free the bolts you need to pry up the flange from out of the key slot. Sell the car at a fair price to someone, letting them know the tranny needs work, and buy a new Miata! Plus pulling the old tranny and putting one in is going to be a whole lot easier than tearing your old one apart. So while it isn't the most difficult job you should be an accomplished shade tree mechanic. If you are going to do this project you need to get the enthusiasts manual I reference in the first post.
The horse steadies as the archer pulls back his arrow. These are quality kits that include the replacement parts you need to overhaul your manual transmission. This is not a job where you can plunk a tranny down on the ground and work away at it like you can some other jobs. I received the shifter kit and installed it today and am very happy with it! As it goes in a bit adjust the channel pliers and take another 'bite' on the roll pin. Rod's manual recommended a hub puller, but I couldn't locate the correct style, so I decided to build something instead. · Feeler gauges or depth gauge - You'll need feeler gauges to measure down to just a few thousandths of an inch and a straight edge too. They make a big mess when they leak.
Just came back from a run to test the shifter. So browse around our great selection of car parts and let's help with that auto repair or car upgrade! Please don't ask how I know this. If the tranny won't turn or is binding badly, or just won't shift all gears then there's a probably a big problem requiring disassembly to find the culprit. Maybe you've had the car to the dealer or shop and they think your tranny needs work. Don't ask ;- About 10% of the shift forks are reusable. The back end of the 'spoon' fit at the base of the key slot and acted as a leverage point and the upper edge pushed the flange metal up as I cranked down. The tranny has 90,000 miles and one season of racing.
I did replace most of the roll pins and c clips, but the were cheap. Replaced clutch ass'y, resurfaced flywheel. If you're doing this job it's probably for 1 or 2 reasons. Found leak at base of clutch master cylinder reservoir. They make a big mess when they leak.
Maybe its because over the last year or so I have spent a small fortune, between rebuilding the front end, new motor and now a trans. Ask how much you could save by pulling the tranny, delivering it to the dealer so they can repair it, and reinstalling it yourself. Make sure the tranny spins freely not having the snout installed allows you grab the input shaft and easily give it a twist So twist it. Oh a few last things… The tranny is now working perfectly, better than new. I did my job in the winter over several slow, painful months! Now it is fun to go through the gears when accelerating! Removing the 1st snap ring from the input shaft. Be careful to select one with M10 × 1. Your you can spend 600.