These engines are mounted transversely which puts the camshaft end in very close proximity to the shock tower making replacement of the cam seal extremely difficult using conventional methods. Haha, funny you point that out lol, i had been working on the car for almost an hour before Ryan showed up to take pictures. If so, then there isn't a cam or crank sensor issue. We know it stretches on the first go. Just gotta be patient and take your time.
Is there a way to screw this up? You do have to angle it to get it in there but it will go. Cam bolts aren't marked as replacement, so it's not likely they are tty. It won't go in because of the cv joint is blocking it from going in. Due to this confined area, it is extremely difficult to replace the cam seal using conventional methods. Remove and replace with new. Apparently the Mazda ignition system did not ike that! I hope I'm not giving out bad info. The initial tear down is most of what you have to make up yourself i.
Thanks again everyone for your collective experience! I used the plugs that came in my 2. From here, you just go backwards. I verified spark by pulling out the plug, attaching it to the coil and placing a wire between it and ground. They are very informative on how to time these engines. The process is called out in the factory service manual. Go ahead and replace the one closest to the block now, and set the gear aside for the moment.
Is there a way to check the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor? If you are, you should be at least getting some popping through the intake or something even if the crank pulley is way off. So I either have the wrong one. Your follow-up resolution helps add value to the knowledge here. The crank bolt, for sure. I did not change the intake cam, as it was the same as the 2007 cam.
You will need the T8 Inverted Torx, and a 17mm open ended wrench. Can't explain it, but good note to others if they run into this. Are you using the Mazda crank and cam sensor assuming as they are not compatible with the Ford? Are you getting spark at all four cylinders? Are you sure you are getting fuel through the injectors to the cylinders verses just verifying fuel pressure? Push the coolant tank towards the emblem on the bumper, it should sit in there just nice, then pull the power steering tank in the same direction and zip tie it down. Vehicle application chart and diagrams included. If it is specifically for the 2. This job takes a long, long, long time and makes you go a bit crazy.
I'm not sure it is. I just went by the compression readings taken by some shop. I verified fuel pressure with a gauge and by pulling off the fuel rail, reconnecting the fuel line and watching the fuel squirt out into a bucket while loving wifey cranked over the engine. This how to guide says nothing about removing it. So I either have the wrong one.
Your engine must not have had the stock 2. You have dove into something that you may not be prepared for. Is there a way to check the crank position sensor or the cam position sensor? I have spark, fuel, but no start. I will try to take pictures and post them first I need to learn how to do this. Car prices are anticipated to increase with the reintroduction of the on September 1, but one distributor says it will absorb the sales tax for vehicles booked before September 1 but delivered after that date, reports.
I didn't find this out until after the engine swap was complete. Now grab one of your zip ties and wrap it around the main fuel feed to the fuel rail like this: Grab your 17mm open ended wrench and break the nut free and un-thread it all the way down. . Skid Plate but who has one of those? Then move around to the next bolt and do the same thing, do this till all of them are off. So I ordered one from them. Anthony Lim believes that nothing is better than a good smoke and a car with character, with good handling aspects being top of the prize heap. These vehicles have smaller brake pistons than other vehicles.
Then: Remove all the following: Passenger wheel and any fender liners that are blocking the Crank pulley. I just completed my engine swap. I did not troubleshoot it myself after I bought it. How did you verify that you are getting spark and fuel? Are you sure you are getting fuel through the injectors to the cylinders verses just verifying fuel pressure? I did not verify that the Ford spark plugs that came with 2. I verified spark by pulling out the plug, attaching it to the coil and placing a wire between it and ground. Among the advantages of registering is once a name has been registered, a guest cannot post using that name.
Your Crank Pulley Will line up with a threaded hole on the Timing Cover this is where you will place the M6x1 bolt 10mm Notice bolt on pulley in picture below: Now grab your marker. If you are, you should be at least getting some popping through the intake or something even if the crank pulley is way off. Take your flathead screw driver and place it in between the yellow clip on the forward fuel line, then lightly pry it open. I did not troubleshoot it myself after I bought it. Rotating the piston is required on most. Do you have the length of the tool from shoulder to the tip.