These have a dial on the outside of the caliper-actuating arm which when turned inward will move the pad inward. Route bleed hose into bottle to catch fluid. A couple of weeks ago I made the mistake of hitting the front lever without the wheel in place. Squeeze the lever a few times. I have bled, rebled as well as centering by all methods described above all to no avail. Weak locktite didn't really help, but I found some nice strong stuff which solved that problem. Reach is adjustable via a dial set into the lever blade and you can adjust the bite point with a 2mm Allen key.
I had a little on the front brake but I was able to push the pistons back and they actually stayed back. I am so happy I'm not the only one with this problem and that there is a fix. Look for a minimum thickness of 1mm and check the condition of the pad making sure they are not galled or contaminated with grease or oil. The dominant outside; easier to move piston moved, but the other one did not. This time the bike shop contacted Hayes and sent the brake off. I've lubed it several times, I've bled the brakes 4 times, I've done everything the Hayes people said to do. I've tried Hayes on other bikes, and they are not as powerful as the Avids.
It may take a couple of tries to get it right but not hearing that rubbing sound when the wheel is spinning is great. Problem is if I center the disc visually between the pads then the disc rubs on the actual caliper body to one side. There wasn't a whole lot of play left at this point anyway. Hey, the first part of any ride I have I love the way they feel and work. Fix b Send it Hayes.
Note: the following photos may not be the same as your brake set-up but they will represent most of the systems out there. Once disassembled, I cleaned everything with alcohol and tried to reassemble. Push the piston back in the bore with the wrench and repeat. I have had a few issues, but none of them so far have really been the brakes fault, just poor set-up by me, mis-alignment issues, or wear. I can see how the more downhill type of riders wouldn't care as much as someone like myself, who needs all the help me can get climbing steep Front Range trails. The right one works flawlessly.
Look up how to do it on the internet if in doubt. The dominant piston had pushed out part way during the bleed process. The built-in barrel adjuster makes small tweaks to pad clearance super quick and easy. Hopefully they will stay in alignment or else I will chunk them. The Vs still have largish oblong holes - not exactly ovals - cut into the middle of the disk, but there are also smaller round holes along the inner and outer edge in addition to the V cutout. The two leaves fold into the tool body after use for protection.
Most discs brakes will have sticky pistons at one point or another of its life, some others will never experience it. My friend just got new brakes, same as mine and they are perfect Mine aren't new. What you have to realize is how the piston maintains a rest position. I am writing this review as a follow up to a review that I wrote last year. I'm trying an Avid rotor on the rear.
The first has no initial setup adjustability apart from how far the caliper arm is rotated and cable clamped. Smooth feel, easy lever action, plenty of power, good feedback, no fade, low noise, consistent braking. I guess Hayes sends out some bad products but others are fine. When cutting cables use proper cable cutters that leaves a nice flush finish to the cable ends. Once we receive the brake we turn them around the same day. Jackety123 wrote: I've got some new brake pads in my Hayes Stroker Trails, and they rub quite a bit, is this normal for new pads? One point of note: I have a 2016 Navigator.
I just cant get the brakes not to rub and also to have my brake lever at a nice pull where I am not touching my fingers. I tried sanding them with some success but always the same thing. If it has been longer than that, you can try a few things to see if it is a minor issue. Push the pistons back in all the way. We had the calipers centered in no time, and it was great not needing to loosen and tighten the caliper bolts multiple times to find a sweet spot. This arm contains the cable clamping and rotates when the brake lever is depressed.
Also, these brakes friggin rock! I feel it is a tall order to have an ideal braking set-up on a bicycle - both pistons moving the exact same time with retraction that leaves the pads just off a completely true rotor, hmm. I've been using Avid mechanicals for years, but since this was my first freeride frame, I thought I'd give the hydraulics a try. This is my first Hayes bicycle set, but I've worked on disc brakes on many on- and off-road motorcycles. Is it really a good system, or just one that Hayes happens to use. I had bled the brakes 4 times up to that point, removing a small amount of air each time. Apply and release the brake looking at the actuation arm what the brake cable attaches to at the caliper. Anyway, once the rotor had worn to its concave shape, it caused the pads to wear unevenly.