And please check and double check the fuse. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. Forget to reconnect the heated seat and grip connector? I have this same problem. While it's tough, I worry about its flexibility. Pressure like that can break the heaters and keep them from firing up. Still, all the dealer parts places I have called want 725 for the bottom seat cover, part number sv251azaa.
On mine I had trouble shot to the right hand grip it was open when I turned it over to the dealer for repair. This is really doing my head in and has wasted over two weeks of fiddling in my spare time. In addition to the fuses, there is a relay that feeds the system. This allows for the thermostat to have several levels at which it turns on or off to control the heat. Both switches lit up fine and showed 14V flowing to the correct wire when the relevant switch was thrown.
Be interested to see what you you find. Your '97 may be different. Is it actually sewn into the outer leather cover or is it part of the foam cushion? There are also some plastic channel-type connectors sewn into the leather seam going left to right. The Seat module switches the power to the heating elements. It is true that there is another a second fuse under the hood? If you can find one, you would pay much less at a salvage junk yard. My question is this, since the seat I got is not the same color can I use the seat from the salvage and merely change out the covers, or is this possible. It's easy enough to swing it down out of the way.
Edit: I found that the resistance reading on the seat heating elements should be between 3-8 Ohms. Unless you have side airbags, the back cover will be even more. This is either going to be a failed module, bad heating elements, or the wiring between the module and elements. The Resistor Heated car seats work because a has been placed beneath the seat cover of the vehicle. The thermistor may not be working properly. A few members, myself included, have had heating element problems.
The switch has a different power source. The outer wire frame of the cover hooks into clips at the back of the metal seat frame; tilt the cover up and slide it forward to release it On the 94 Aero there is a seat controller module that gets in the way of at least one of the hooks. If that isn't the problem, check the electrical plug underneath the heated seat where the seat plugs into the main wiring harness. I think I've found my problem anyway - a defective right grip- although reading your email, now I'm not so sure! I have a Gs300 which seems to be running well except for the fact that the 2 front heated seats are not working. The seats have been swapped with a different set that were working when removed from the other car, with no joy. I scooped up the heating element from a non-dealership parts source, and went at it with intentions to fix the seat and give some pictures to those of you who are willing to tackle the job.
Remove the cushion and leather on the base to get access to the heater elements. The same thing happened to mine. I faintly hear a click when I switch them on coming from one of those areas. You have a pretty good chance to deal with dead battery on your return. Use common sense about exhaust fumes; as in, don't sit in the idling car with the hatch door open, or in a garage, or in any situation where exhaust fumes could collect.
The magnetic field pulls a lever and flips the relay switch for the heated seats to now receive power directly from the battery of the car. Make sure the wire goes on in the same place that the old element was. You can check with your owner's manual to be sure the thermister was in the correct location to begin with. Are you sure they are not working? A healthy wire will measure resistance on the meter. After some more trouble shooting he determined that the heat controler connector had some pins that were not making contact, bent the ears in so they made good contact with the pin and no more problem.
You can also check to be sure that there are 12 volts coming from both sides of the switch for the heated seats while the switch is on. Below is some schematics you might find interesting. I went to a salvage yard and f d the same problem with that car. Mine wasn't working when I first bought it used but only 900 miles and 6 months old. Used much like a railway stitch which allows trains to switch tracks, a relay allows electricity to switch circuits from a small amount of power to a much larger source.
If there aren't 12 volts, you know that the switch is bad, although this is rarely the case. As they age it will become even less noticable , you only notice it more in the winter as the leather is colder and makes a stark contrast from the summer months. If you're at all mechanically inclined, you can do this. Fit was outstanding and I agree it's hard to tell if they are on when set to low. When the seats begin to cool off too much, the initial relay is triggered by the thermostat and the seats are heated by the battery once more. So unless there are a load of earths not connected, I can't see any connection at all from one side to the other. To determine if the heater element is broken, you will need to so this is the last thing you will check.
I've done it both ways; in either case, it's necessary that you completely unbolt the seats from the floor and disconnect the electrical harnesses. I am not really sure they apply to your vehicle. Did you feel the other seats working before removal from the other car? Step 5 - Access the Element Pull the seat out of the car. Anyway, I had been thinking about installing a set of bar risers anyway and so this seems a good time to do it - I ordered them today! Be sure that all the plugs in the heated seats are free of corrosion or dirt that may inhibit them from working correctly. If you still have warranty they have to fix that free of charge. What was the part number or what model Jeep was the heater for. The upside is that my 06 is still under warranty tll May.