So im thinking I got a bad sensor? I think mine may be inviable or extremely well hidden. It will be August before they have any. I know the hose clamps on the filler hose are shot and wouldn't tighten down all the way so perhaps the air is escaping there. If it comes back, look at a new fuel pump. Only other thing I think might be the problem is Powertrain Control Module but I honestly have no other idea. Said they would need to siphon off all the gas I'd just bought to be able to lift the gas tank to get to the pump; apparently this is not a pretty fix for the guys in the shop. For more info on this, see:.
My grandchildren were strapped in when the problem stated, that is very dangerous and could have been fatal in case of fire. One troubleshooting technique involves using starting fluid and the other involves using a fuel pressure gauge. The aftermarket ones were not that much cheaper, especially not considering installation costs, hotels, and out of town repairs. I have looked online to all major auto parts dealers and there is no pump to be found. They even tried a salvage search and nothing turned up.
Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. This is the end of the battery cable that I referred to earlier. You can also get good name brands for only a few bucks more without having to get stuck buying the whole assembly. So I think you have two problems. The pump uses the recirculating gas to keep itself cool, and sucking too much air will burn it out.
Finally replaced the last one with a Motorcraft one, the van became like new, more power than it had in a long time, no screaming sound, none of the problem I had with the aftermarket ones. Then they slap some brand name on it and call it good. There is a well-know issue about a bunt connection in the central junction box in the right front kick panel. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. If we feel a piece of advice is particularly reckless, dangerous, or extremely unhelpful it maybe removed If a post or comment is provided that is not a response to a question, the post may be removed.
If it's got wheels, treads, floats, flies, or has an engine you're good to go. All I know is my original fuel pump lasted 160K+ miles, then I went through three before it reached 200K. I had it towed to the shop on Monday, June 10th 2013 and they told me it was the fuel pump and it was on National back order and the pump would not be available until August 4th 2013. Had it towed to the dealership who stated it was the fuel pump, which is on national back order and they have no idea when the problem will be fixed with the fuel pumps - apparently there is a problem and they manufacturer have stopped producing them to come up with a solution. Tried it one last time and when we cycled the key to on it magically just when up to 12 volts. We are more than happy to help you figure out why a shop wants to charge you for a repair, and we will tell you if it is unusually high. And yes it at the rear of the truck but the module is brand new.
He said fuel pumps for the Taurus and Explorer are also on national back order. We are also happy to advise on how you can save money at the shop. If there is no continuity the wire is shorted in the harness. Pump replacement on the Aerostar should be easier than on a Mustang. See the above list of causes and go from there. We have contacted Ford and have been told that there is nothing they will do for us, and our local dealership wants us to buy another vehicle.
If it sees voltage that is too low or no voltage at all, it may set P0231. I was recently having problems with my wife's 2004 expedition intermittently starting would crank and turn over but would not stay running and died once when driving. But I think the relays and fuses are fine since I'm getting some type of reading. I think ford should give me another vehicle to drive while my expedition is down. There was no debris in the tank, and the fuel filters were replaced each time, but were not plugged. This is inside the dash board towards the drivers side. I am a locksmith so I am familar with the locks.
The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. Check diagrams and component locators before jumping any circuits, as I did. If no crankshaft reference pulses are received, the de-energizes the fuel pump relay after 2 seconds. The alternator being the most likely culprit. There is a box that has 4 relays, and some 3 test connectors attached.
I put all of the covers back on, cleared the codes and test drove the vehicle. I had it towed to the local Ford Dealership where we have bought 4 vehicles since 2004. The fuel pump inertia shut off switch is in the passenger side front kick panel. The original fuel pump on my 87 Mustang died in 94, while I was 35 miles from home on a dark night. We believe there should be a recall for this issue! Apparently Ford and Ford dealers are not being of any service in this matter. . This connector has a slide mechanism.