Ended up tapping a drain plug on hers and with the second flush it has stopped puking fluid thru the vent. You have to look up your axle on drivetrains. Have not tried Kitchener Ford. Drain the housing and clean the cover plate Once you have loosened all 12 bolts, remove all but two. I have 2 more choices, my personal mechanic or a Transmission shop. Loktite is optional on the threads of the plug.
It is not one of those common car parts like the transmission or radiator. It is like they don't know they do these services? According to the Scheduled Maintenance Guide that came with my Ford F350 7. I have two questions about changing the rear differential fluid on my Ranger. For longer races, after everyone starts out in his or her appropriate lanes, everyone clusters toward the inside lane of the track. They called to say they were working on pricing, 2 weeks ago, then no call. What's the harm in asking others who have done the job before? When refilling, remove dipstick to provide adequate venting and allow oil to flow into crankcase.
Did you try Kitchener Ford? But think you are only suppose to drive these 36,000 miles then trade them in. Deep grooves, scaring or chips are a sign of impending problems. Have you ever changed the differential fluid you have 2, one in front and the other in the rear if you have a 4X4 , the transfer case fluid, and the transmission fluids? Make sure you know if your rear end has a limited slip, as special fluid is needed. I'd forgotten to get some sort of pump, so in the end I ran a piece of hose from on high down to the fill hole, and filled it until it ran out. Leave two bolts at the top of the cover and then, using a flat blade screwdriver, you want to just pry open the bottom of the cover. There is a small pocket in the diff that holds half a cup of oil in the bottom.
The Ford F-150 first began its relationship with the American public in 1975. In those cases, got a set of pipe taps and put my own in. Went there years ago 2x to look to seriously buy and was treated like a nobody. Here, we're going to add some limited slip differential additive. The best way to do it is to lift the rear of the truck so that the shocks are fully extended. Visually inspect and locate the rear-differential fill plug.
According to the owners manual for a 1999 Ford Ranger all applications. We have regular fluid checks done and not at the Ford dealership. I don't see any reason to get some sort of pump to extract the oil; taking off the cover is easy and the bottom of the case can be wiped to remove any metal chips. The Motorcraft is good oil and I would recommend it, just not the price. Also, if you by an 8. Follow this up with emery cloth to remove the remaining silicone.
Step 5 Clean the rear using brake cleaner. I put 75w140 valvoline syn. You can figure the axle size out. Contact me on my DieselOrings. Procedure: Gather Materials: Put truck in park and apply brake. Also extends the life of those axle bearings.
Local lube shop says here is price, I go and they don't have tools to access rear diff plug since rear crossmember has no cutout to allow socket or room for a normal wrench to access??!! The owner's manual and the Haynes manual have no mention of this. Al This was the way I was leaning. Just try to get as much of that out of there as you can and then wipe down the outside of the differential. So many of these threads show up and the thing is, you didn't tell us what size differential you had. Buy the Motorcraft oil at a Ford dealer and add another dollar or so.
Read this tread: Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:29 am So I tried to get these done at 2 places due to mileage and the fact it is winter here. If you would have read the manual, you would have found your answer. . Wipe off oil anywhere you can get to on the gears and walls inside the axle. Some what intimidating when you first crawl under the truck simply due to it's size. Step 3 Remove the bolts and the differential cover and allow time for the rear to drain Step 4 While the rest of the rear diff drains, use a fine grit auto sand paper to sand the surface where you will be sealing the cover again.
Once that is done, it's time to break the seal. I would use gasket sealer on the stamped-steel cover only, that is more likely to bend and open up gaps. It's a normal open rear with 4:10's axle code 97 The Dark Edge Rises! Take your rear differential cover. You want to make sure you have a drip pan underneath. Do so at your own risk! For that reason I chose Redline 75W90. This article has been generously donated by Peter Ferlow.