If it breaks it can not be serviced. Get your vehicle up to speed when the vibration starts, and then back off the power. I always start with new u joints if they are original Spicer solid u joints and have miles on them. Reinstall the rear driveshaft using a 12 point 12mm socket. I've been having a vibration on the highway 65mph+ and have been trying to hunt it down for awhile now. However, the shudder is still there, although it is not as harsh as it once was. Belts separating and flat spots show worse at higher speeds.
Lubrication of drive shaft works for periods of 6000-8000 miles before has to be reapplied. I used a wrench because I cannot stand to have a 12 pt socket in my tool box I did not want to make a special trip to the hardware store. Use duct tape to cover the defrost vents so broken glass doesn't fall into them. There are five I had four but I think I was missing one bolts holding them together. Watch the gap on your fixed object and see if you notice any change.
The vibration is the same whether or not your on the throttle or not, as long as your speed stays pretty consistent like off the throttle but coasting down a hill. My aftermarket crossmember almost hits the driveshaft, but it clears it. I took the opportunity to clean my interior a bit and fix the seat adjustment lever beneath the seat. I can actually hear my engine now. It is also a good idea to replace the slave cylinder on your new transmission. Still in dispute, vehicle not fixed. Mine took just under 3 quarts.
If okay, you may try testing a couple different tires in the rear. Then bolt the starter in. I checked my rear driveshaft balance and wheel balance. I'm wondering if it's an issue in the transfer case or front diff? Unplug the wiring from the transfer case. This problem caused rattling and the vehicle would become hard to control on the highway.
On 4x4 Rangers there is a flange on both the diff and transfer case. The front end of the shaft needs a Torx key to remove the 4 screws fastening the straps which secure the standard-type U-joint there. Issue is that the drive shaft slips and jerks causing the vehicle to jump during light acceleration from a stop, and or when the vehicle comes to a stop with light braking. In terms of installation, buyers don't need to worry about having to pay for a mechanic because as long as they have the right tools and repair skills, they can easily attach this driveshaft; it's designed to match the fit of the original part, so installation becomes hassle free. Hope this is more helpful. To ease the removal of the floor plate, I removed my seats using a 13mm socket.
Remove transmission and diconnect linkage. The circular sound damper broke off. To make sure it can hold out against daily use, it's rigorously tested using state-of-the-art equipment. Also, does anyone know if there is a harmonic? To do so, first remove the fill plug in case it is frozen. I totally forgot about the damn transfer case in a 4x4! The carrier bearing is found where the front and rear parts of a two piece driveshaft meet and is bolted to the truck. I also replaced my rear main bearing seal and clutch hydraulics as some added security.
Lay off the gas, smooth as silk. I'm not knocking Spicer joints, I think they are the best solid joint for the money, but those end discs do create problems. Being the vibration is in the seat and not the steering wheel indicates the problem is on the back side or even the transfer case. Any suggestions for anything to look for in the transfer case? Overtime frontend will develop problems that can total the vehicle. The consumers warranty had expired and there was nothing that Ford would do to help with the problem.
What is wrong with this picture? I used a small hammer and a pair of pliers for this. I've replaced all the ujoints front and rear last summer. It also comes with a powder coating for improved resistance to corrosion. I've found that it works quite well to have the axel up on jack stands, so that the tranny can be put into neutral, so that you can turn the drive shaft. It is held on by four 13mm bolts.
Turned out to be the front u-joint on the driveshaft. In stock form, the only problem with the 2-piece shaft is that the rubber carrier bearing bushing can fall apart and need to be replaced. I had to enlarge the terminal from the 2. There are three rivets holding it to the crossmember that must be ground off and hammered through. Disconnect the vent hose on the transfer case from its location on the transmission so you do not rip the hose when you remove the transfer case.