The fix involves new expansion tank and cap, new 74degree thermostat and new coolant hoses to splice into exisiting. I would check the thermostat anyway because sometimes Ford makes the gauge more like a light which just stays in the middle unless you have big problems. I wound up removing the valve cover anyway. If there is a breach from the coolant to the cylinder, the drop in colant pressure will promote boiling and airlocks which could cause the remaining coolant to overheat-which the gauge correctly registers. I really don't want to remove the valve cover because I just replaced the valve cover gaskets not more than 3 months ago. Fitted sensor looks like this.
Sun 27 Feb 2011 10:13 Ford Focus 1. The coolant level is okay. However one thing I did not know about is the two underside multi plugs you advised to check as they were covered by a white protective panel. I can look up the correct part number for you as soon as I have the exact model you have. So I replace the MotoRad product with another one and watched the temp gauge.
The bimetal contact movement is achieved using the different expansion rates of two metals fused together. Fan seems to be working overtime though. If you ignore a small coolant leak long enough, you will run out of coolant, which leads to an overheated engine and other serious, but highly avoidable, problems. Ok I am slightly alarmed now! Difficult to say with a modern car, it could well be electrical if the fan is controled by the same sensor as the gauge. But I know that usually when the sensor fails, it gives a stupid reading instead of just nothing. Check the engine temperature right at the thermostat housing. I have included some general information in the diagrams down below for you.
It is probably the cylinder head temperature sensor. The Fail-Safe thermostat is designed to lock in the full open position in the event of an overheating condition. Tried all 4 blower speeds but no fan movement. Car eventually went into limp mode. If so, is there any excessive white smoke at idle. I'm afraid that when you first lost coolant, the engine experienced localised overheating which wouldn't show up on the temp gauge. Sensor is located on the front crash member, just behind the bumper.
I would usually just swap the sensor out for a new one which I still may. If you want to just skip to last para the solution is there. If the temps are close, the sensor is ok. If you know your Year Make Model, put it in the selector so that we can guide you to a product that fits your vehicle. Engine coolant which is also called antifreeze or anti-freeze moves through the inside of your Focus's engine and keeps it from overheating. Gently push grille to front. The fuse board should be covered with a felt trim panel, but this had previously been removed to replace a fuse.
I went ahead and made it an all day event and to the opportunity to check my bearing caps for play along with camshaft lobe integrity and clearances. Hello, The sensor is located near the front of the engine on a coolant hose fitting. Over the past month I have had the same probelms with my 2001 Focus 1. Hope this helps, my car to date has not overheated despite my best efforts in testing the garages work. Then compare the readings to an actual temperature check with a contact thermometer or non contact infra red thermometer.
The temp gauge would shoot to the red mostly when on a motorway or climbing a long hill but it gradually got worse to the extent that even on short journeys it was an issue. First step to fit our outside temp sensor is to open the hood and disassemble front grille. I have a 2005 Ford Focus pzev. S how can I see photos in other posts? The fact that it only does it in 5th is probably because you spend most time there. But my experience is that the thermostats result in a false positive far too often. If so, is there any excessive white smoke at idle. There is a drop down fuse board in the Focus passenger footwell.
In your case, cruising in 5th would appear to be that speed. This was replaced along with the thermometer and coolant replaced. I guess it's just gonna have to stay a pain. No trouble starting when cold. Easy for them to say its ok to carry on driving but when the needle is sitting on red and doesn't budge doesn't come natural to carry on dirivng. I'll have to dismantle it, Haynes says it's a nightmare! Took it back to garage twice and they stated the engine wasn't overheating and they believed it was a dash issue and recommended I just drive it as it was.