Typically, the clirclip can be re-used but we offer it in case you would like to replace it. If there is interest, I can post all the 'replacement pics' for this job as well, just takes a while so thought I'll 'fast forward' a bit. With over two decades of parts, service, and racing experience under our belt, we provide only quality performance and replacement parts. After you have removed the two on the E46 M3 small bolts normally only one on other models that hold the disc in place, gently tap the dust cover off, as in pic to expose the 'locking nut' in the olden days a castle nut was used with a split pin now the 'locking nut' has a collapsible outer ring. Make sure the installation orientation is correct, or you will likely destroy your bearing if you have to remove it. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues.
All of our performance parts are those we would and do! This is how the spindle looks like with the wheel bearing removed. These sounds increase in frequency as speed increases and will get louder as you turn the wheel and put load on the worn side. The outer diameter of the socket I bought was initially too big to fit inside the hub, so I had to use an angle grinder to convert the socket into a thin-walled socket. These sounds increase in frequency as speed increases and will get louder as you turn the wheel and put load on the worn side. The bearings on both sides came off cleanly this time, but sometimes the inner race will stay stuck on the spindle. We've had a rotor stuck so badly that we had to take a sledge hammer to it, but this can damage your rotors, so reserve this as a last resort if you're not replacing your rotors at this time.
I used a socket that was slightly smaller than the diameter of the inner bearing and a mallet to drive the bearing onto the spindle. The first step is to get the car up in the air and take the wheel off. You only have to drive the wheel bearing far enough for the wheel bearing nut to get started. Replace your wheel bearings when you hear groaning or rumbling sounds from the front. Get under the lip of the cover, and then start prying around the perimeter until it comes off. The holes were clogged with brake dust. With the right tools, it's not a difficult job, so let's get started.
Once the caliper is removed, hang it up with a rope or equivalent so that the brake line isn't supporting the full weight of the caliper. Applying force to the outer portion of the bearing can cause the inner and outer race to separate. Well, I figure I have to replace the front left wheel bearing. We pushed some baling wire through the holes in the jaws and twisted them tight to close the jaws hard. Be sure to clean and degrease the brake rotors if you managed to get them dirty.
The caliper is held on with two bolts. The brake calipers and wheel bearing assembly mounts to this king pin. With over two decades of parts, service, and racing experience under our belt, we provide only quality performance and replacement parts. You can use a screwdriver and mallet, but I find a chisel works a little better. The torque spec is 300 Newton-meters 221 foot-lbs. I used a trick where I employed baling wire to pull the jaws of the puller together. It is interchangable with part 31221468926 or 31221139345.
When wheel bearing begin to fail you normally will here a squeaking or grinding noise or sometimes feel a slight amount of vibration in the steering wheel. We stuffed a socket or two in the center of the spindle to give the bearing puller something to push against. All of our performance parts are those we would and do! We only offer parts we know you can trust to perform! Once the bolts are loosened, work the caliper off of the rotor. The only other wire is the one that goes to the brake pad wear sensor. It is interchangable with part 31221468926 or 31221139345.
This side's brake pads and rotors were worn down a lot more than the other side. Finally, the bearing seized up and the wheel locked up while the car was at speed. The race should then come off easily. Be sure to replace these asap to prevent possible damage to the hub or steering issues. All of our performance parts are those we would and do! Typically, the circlip can be re-used but we offer it in case you would like to replace it. Tools needed: Jack and JackStands Slotted screwdriver Hammer 8mm Hex 10mm deep socket 16mm socket 17mm deep socket Bearing-race Installer Ratchet extension 36mm socket 46mm socket Torque wrench that can hit 250 ft. Wear mechanics gloves if possible.
In order to do this, you may need to lock the rotor from spinning. . It makes a rumbling sound at all speeds but when I turn the wheel slightly to the right the sound goes away. I used a chisel to make two cuts to form a tab which I then bent into the notch in the spindle. Mine was 214 lb ft.
So if that is not your vehicle, there might be differences. I place a little wheel bearing grease on the shaft to help the new bearing slide over. We recommend purchasing a new locking circlip and axle nut. It requires a 46 mm socket. The new wheel bearing gets hammered back onto the spindle, but the installation force can break the bearing if the force isn't applied to the inner race only. We didn't notice any impact on braking performance or a pull to one side while braking.