In the foreground is the detached thermostat hose connection, the small black hose from this goes to the underside of the intake manifold where it keeps the oil fumes heading to the turbo intake area from freezing. We are not responsible for any actions you take on your vehicle. Well the replacement correct plugs have arrived and I have been given a refund by , top marks to them for being customer focused. . So now it was up to me to sort out the issue. Yes, mine is a 'Wide band Equivalence' model.
This week I have stayed at 60mph along the dual carriageway and that figure has increased to 36mpg at the dash. Which is a great shame, as they looked pretty knackered to me. Just about every fuel injected vehicle uses an engine map to decide how much fuel to supply to the engine for any given load, speed, temperature etc. One last shot at fixing it before I had it over to the men in white coats with £1,000 'scopes. Volvo check engine light code p0100, p0101, p2178, p2188, p0336. In the case of my Volvo, it was hesitation off-idle and general bad behaviour and unresponsiveness in the lower rev range.
The oil drains back into the sum via this hole. An added benefit is that the oil consumption has been greatly reduced by the replacement of the oil trap under the intake manifold. Being naive, I assumed that my O2 sensor was 'sluggish' as my 'curve' looked rather disappointingly slow. The information contained on this site is presented for informational purposes only. I knew the history of this car as for the last four years it has been parked next door! Checking all along the pipe work, it became clear that some pipe work had reached the end of its useful life. The engine is at idle and just pulling its own weight, so to speak. So that was not a total waste of time and it did not cost a great deal.
The car also appeared to warm up quicker. Misfires can be caused by ignition problems, fuel problems or compression problems. So we shall have to see how that has affected the pump numbers. So I am still working in the dark. Symptoms are occasional hesitation accelerating and surging at idle.
The engine uses this map exclusively when in 'open loop' mode, such as accelerating flat out. Note: - Some small black specs are from the cutting process. The firing order for a particular engine is typically found in the repair manual specific to that model. The problem had made the car all but un-sellable as a trade-in, since no dealer wanted to take on board the risk of an expensive fix for its new owner. And they do not swing back and forth like a narrow band one does. Note that mine was cheaper as it came with a light-weight version of the software shown. That has decreased to around a litre every 5,000 miles.
The only things I did related to fuel burning rich was the fuel filter and spark plugs. If you have any doubt as to repairs on your vehicle, please contact your technician. I had to 'drill' it out with a 10mm drill, by hand, to clean out the crud. I suddenly noticed that my sensors appeared to be the wrong way round! Does that code come up in anyones system??? My Theory: To get at the spark plugs I removed the front connection of the turbo hose that runs front to back on top of the engine. But the P2188 light is still bugging me. Not to mention the general census of opinion on the Volvo support sites is that the plugs of choice are Volvo orginal equipment. At least this way there was a good chance of not pushing the muck into the engine! I gapped the plugs to.
I put it all back together and it ran like a top for about 30 miles than the engine light came on with a P0101 and P2188. Is that the correct gap? The same sensor after cleaning with a can of electrical cleaner. If some of this gets back into the oil system its curtains for your lovely turbo, camshaft and possibly crankshaft bearings. A further trawl of the Internet found , they offer both the , and the. So replacing them would have been a good move. Where as before it would be banging off the -25 end stop pretty often for the the first 280 seconds.
I'll post if I have any success. The bad news - I started the car to drive home from work and the engine yellow warning light came on again. The stick in the background was cut to length so that I can check the brakes lights on the old Vectra. First impression, the car did not appear to be as prone to hesitate but then after 10,000 miles of doing it, I am paranoid. My guess is it was cheap as chips chip oil! The actual voltage of these remains quite stable and it is the current amps changing that forces the short term fuel trim to change. The engine was at normal operating temperature. I now have a new on order from 'The Tinternet', rather than risk wasting money on a Chinese 'replica' I went for a genuine Bosch item, another Ebay purchase.
Watch this space as since the plugs have been out, the light has stayed off. It seems I have been sold the wrong ones. It took me a while to notice the obvious difference between the Volvo and the Ford Ka's O2 sensor 1's read outs. As the previous owner is off work sick at the moment, I still have not received the service documents so I know what has and what has not been done. As usual, I searched the Internet to see if there was a precedence for this and found this site. Stone36 - are you saying I may have a rough idle or acceleration even after I've found and solved my problem? The Vauxhall Vectra used an older software program called from Gendan.