Also, make sure that the garage know that is the fault - if they replace it and it still has the error, then you shouldn't have to pay for it. I have a series of faults similar to this that seem to have occured together. Again the lights are back on. And they will charge about a third of the Audi labour rate! Has anyone had something similar or can offer any advice. I've had this also for last three years - every so often an error beep on startup which doesn't stay on screen long enough to read it - but have made out it says see owner manual.
It could indicate a serious fault and you should not drive the vehicle any further until you have the problem assessed. I do find it a bit strange that they build these cars with complex inbuilt electronic diagnosis - then when the car tells you the problem you don't believe it and decide it needs to be questioned. Car has 104k 05 plate 3. My theory is a sticky number two sensor. My advice now is to anyone who has this problem let someone like Volksmaster fix it for the cost even if its a long drive to get it done.
It literally displays for a split second barely long enough to read For the rest of the day it'll start up first time without any warnings or messages. If it won't go in easly, it may screw in. Its just not worth the hassle and a shame the weren't about when I had to do mine. Can they actually be that cheap or are the dealers are making a huge profit? I bought a cheap diagnostics cable on e-bay for less then £20. Warning Light failed to clear, so the firm sent another one- still no joy. Managed to remove connector from front sensor, pulled it off and on a few times to improve connection, ran a scan the fault code was still there. Guy I bought it from said local garages could not find a fault and Audi wanted £135 just for diagnostics so he decided to sell the car.
Audi A6 C6 coolant warning light - the coolant symbol lamp will illuminate if the coolant circulating your engine is not at the correct temperature. I was advised to change the abs pump so thats been done too. Worried about it turning into one of those jobs where you go through a lot of pain and cost to swap one part only to find the fault was actually elsewhere. How do I go about diagnosing and fixing the issue? If your car has full main dealer service history they will contribute some percentage towards the cost but it will still normally work out more expensive than getting it repaired alsewhere. Also if you go that way make sure you get the code of the original unit before you remove it from the car, saves loads of hassle. .
Any ideas why it's gone wrong? They will not do what Audi do - if you get the right one with the right experience they will probably know straight away what the problem is. Take it to halfords for a battery test its free see what sorta charge its holding. I'm tempted to think it's a failing battery - it would explain why it does it when the car has been left standing maybe the battery is draining over night and running low!? Not too difficult to fix if you are tech savvy. Something smells fishy to me. The new faults are a coulple of throtle actuator and angle sensor ones, the clue in the first one is the recorded voltage of 9. It literally only happens on the first start up after the car has been left standing for a while over 12 hours around about After reading this thread it seems Audi say it's perfectly normal, others say it's the sign of a failing battery - Anyone else experience this? Thanks, but I'm pretty sure from reading your thread that you had a different problem.
I really don't trust any of them to be honest - i'd like to be forearmed with what i know are the facts. The exact same thing happened when i had my 170 58 plate. Its a 2008 170 dpf. Sometimes my passenger mirror doesn't fold out and I have the fold the drivers back in and try again. If this turns out to be an expensive fix i will be raising this again as i'm sure it will be on computer the times i have brought it up.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009 b0z84p2. If you buy the new unit you will need to recode it and then readapt it to the car. Total cost less then £20 for the cable which I continue to use on other cars for myself and friends and a couple quid or less for a bit of copper, solder and electricity and a 2-3 hours of work for finding and fixing the fault. Even tried ringing round but they all quoted the same price. But the information is also supplied within this page. Its £700 + labour from audi.
Could anybody advise me if they think this is correct and if so the best and easiest way to change the sensor. Lube new pads with litheum grease and place in holder. There are loads of threads on the internet about spongy brakes on these cars once the system is disturbed. Ross-Tech is not affiliated with the Volkswagen Group in any way. That's quite bad, as like you say, they could fold out into anything. Not a huge amount of help, I'm afraid.