Note that the engine moves and vibrates while running, but the harness is fixed to the vehicle body, so some slack must be left in the harness end to prevent it from breaking. Before I saw it was firing, I had the ignition control module tested, and it was fine. Now, unless you can move that bracket or pound it out of the way , you're not going to pull the opposite end with the starter gear out of it's mounting hole. You state a back fire which is caused by off timing It can be the distributor althoug it would need to be pulled out for a inspection. I don't have one on mine but you may have one bad on yours. With erratic ignition, if the spark does come, can come at any time, even the wrong time, and if the intake valve is opened, it will backfire. Always is a wise idea to put some anti seize lubricant on the bolt threads, or at least some grease if no anti seize is available.
I found one of the 40 amp ing. On my 1997 Chevy K1500 truck when the engine is warm if I turn it off for a few minuates when I restart it the starter drags slow but the engine starts. Is there someone who has a better understanding of the electrical system than I do who realizes what's wrong here? Post back, Transman Sorry it has taken me soo long to reply back. It changed nothing, still the same old problem. They don't sell that brand anymore so I bought the package deal with new floats and everything for 200.
You will need a heat gun to shrink the heat shrink tubing into place. If it runs very close the starter may be heat soaking. Came out this morning and it wouldnt start. Dieseldude Yeah, it really should not take more than 30 minutes, even for your first attempt. Kind of prefer the older centrifugal advance, can play with the timing curve by compressing or expanding the springs, have to take the microcontrollers word for it, but like to check it's advancing when all plugged back together again.
I was caught up in thinking the diagram was generic and leaving something out; but looking again I see that if I turn the key and get power on yellow, then the ignition switch is functioning properly and sending power towards the nuetral safety switch. This can be accomplished very easily with a voltage drop test. Example: saturday start right up, drive it to walmart, then get groceries then run to my buddies house. One day it works, the next it doesnt. Soldered wire connections are usually a lot thicker cross section too, and make the joint difficult to seal.
Also, since the starter motor did come alive and cranked the engine. Gas filter was done at tune-up also. Thanks So for diagnosis with the motor where do I start? Thank you so much for helping me through this. I was told it could be the cam or crank or both position sensors, but I have no way of knowing for sure. Go out next day and nothing. After I replaced the plugs, the truck started right up and ran fine. Drive to an auto parts store and have the battery load tested.
If it doesnt start again I will replace the distributor cap and rotor. Got it home, next day no start. . The cables on this model mine is a 1988 Chevrolet K2500 5. I ended up replacing the spark plugs, as they were wet, so it definitely isn't a fuel problem. When a starter heat soaks, the windings get hot to where the resistance thru windings increases requiring more current to turn the starter.
It said to replace the crankshaft position sensor and then reset the computer. Regular heat shrink without the internal glue can be used in combination with an external sealant such as Scotch Cote or Liquid Tape. Ignition switch is a joke with a tiny dimple on a piece of bare corroded copper that us suppose to make contact with another piece of corroded copper. It states it is for vehicle with air bag but the one without at bags is identical as this one. My mechanic said that sounds like the problem, that possibly the injector gets stuck open and sprays too much fuel into the cylinder and then on the compression cycle it has too much fuel and then it can not even bring the piston all the way up to continue the cycle and so that is why it tries to kick back or completely stalls out the starter.
After about 4 days of running fine, I went outside to start my truck, and nothing again. About one week after I got it after a rain, the Tahoe would not start. I also changed the starter relay thinking that may be it but still no luck. He did not give me the code number for it. Chevy Pickup hard starting 96 Chevrolet K1500 Silverado 5. The amazing part is I also tested the voltage and amperage off the battery to the different positions and they were all within starting specs, but when starting the engine turning over and moving just slightly it would shake the connection loose and break the power. Took it for a spin to warm it up and parked turn it off waited 30seconds and it started right, sounds different too.