! Move the ign switch one position, from locked towards start. SilverSurfer wrote:Doubt a shorted vss would smoke the pcm. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. Check each circuit which did not have battery voltage for open or short to ground. Once i got the speedsencer working. Here's something you can try. Gently lift up the led display and notice where the solder straps are connected to the display.
The truck shifts down in 3rd gear and stays there. This condition my also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system. If battery voltage is present at all circuits, go to step 5. It also controls the warning chimes, and it is part of the security system. There are two studs sticking up on the front of the fuse box under the hood.
I wouldnt wait till the last min, because it could be just the tranny pump and if so then it can be saved before it wrecks havoc on the tranny. The codes the computer gave me were all solenoid related. Using scan tool, record freeze frame and failure records for reference. Ksion15 is correct the transmission will default to 3rd gear when the power is removed. You can check these fused with a test light or metre. It's really easy to test which gear the transmission is in as I live in the mountains in Montana.
Keep having the fuse fail on my 1996 chev 1500. It's just the maxi fuse that keeps blowing. After that, he pulled the trannie pan, and did not see anything bad. When you say in gear are you refering to transmission in gear or the 4 wheel drive shift in gear? It's possible you have a bad ignition switch. The one causing the problem was the center one, and the sensor was good. In my opinion I think your Ignition switch is ok if you have B+ voltage to the Trans fuse. I've confirmed that the harness has proper power.
The ignition switch is what feeds power to most of your truck systems including the transmission. Any thing else that would cause these failures? Ã Speed ratio engine speed divided by output speed is. Thanks Please or to join the conversation. Now the truck will shift 1-2 manually, but when you put it in drive, it free wheels: nothing at all; no drag or anything. The trailer break wire gose on the bigger screw the one to the left when standing in front of the truck looking in. I don't have anything showing what gives power to that fuse, it is either constant or through the ignition switch.
The wire is taped to the wires going down along the finder. Specialized tools are required to accurately diagnose trans problems! As soon as I turn the ignition switch the fuse blows. Sorry it took me a while to reply, busy with work. I then changed the speed pickup on the transfer case, which did not help the speedometer. Move the shift lever probably have to step on the brake.
Any transmission with 181,000 miles on it is going to have debris in the bottom of the pan. Someone said it could be a bad resistor with heat sink under dash. I need to know where it is. Which forces 1995 to be a stand alone year. While holding my test light on the trans fuse, I tapped on the ignition switch with my screwdriver handle, and got the light to flash a little, so the ignition switch is gonna get replaced, it's acting kinda goofy anyways. When it does that, I shift to Neutral, start it back up, and keep going.
I traced through the wiring and can't find anything shorting out. Am I looking at a possible short? Quarter panels are welded onto a vehicle. One will be located by the driver side door. If it does not check the wiring circuit like I stated in the previous paragraph. You will see a black case with fuse instructions on the top.
First check all of your. Needless to say it didn't. Another odd thing that I noticed is that the Speedometer and speed the computer reads don't correlate when the trans. Ive changed the solenoids, fluid and filter and even added lucas antislip. Pink was on C, yellow and light green were on F and G.