After doing a little research we have found some other possible causes that we are going to investigate. If you do that and it still doesn't turn over, then charge the battery and try. If the problem came completely out of the blue, I'm guessing bad sensor. Alternatively, stick a plastic handle screwdriver in where the spark plug goes and hold it near the ground on top of the valve cover and look for spark, as a friend cranks the engine. The following is work that has been done Always on time for oil change, scheduled maint. So I popped the hood and disconnected and reconnected the negative terminal on the battery. By the way nothing was amiss with the belt everything intact covered.
A mechanic friend found out that my crank shaft position sensor was going bad. The next morning I bought a starter sure of it working but it still wouldnt turn over. Any idea what it could be if the spark plugs are okay? If no spark, 2nd thing I would check is the crank position switch. Please or to join the conversation. Did you check all under-hood and under-dash fuses? Hondas are notorious for igniters and coils going, especially with the mileage you have on your's.
You say it's turning over faster now right? Start by getting the battery, cable connections, and charging system all checked out. Not yet, as I don't have a spark plug wrench. Here's a brief description: Cranks But Does Not Start Condition: Means that your Honda's starter motor is cranking the engine but the engine is not starting. Remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal, after removing the rotor. As a tech at Honda i ususally use the principle of 1. Something in the engine failed and now waiting to find out what. Too few amps are making it to the actual starting motor.
Your issue sounds to be related to spark or fuel. It cranks just fine with a normal starting sound, but nothing else happens. The sensor tells the computer that the crankshaft is turning. I turn the key to start and everything goes off. The fact that my car is turning over means it can't be locked up right?? I drove it monday all day fine with no signs of anything wrong.
Any idea on what should I check? I pulled a spark plug and had someone put their hand over the hole and it had compression but I don't have a gauge to test actual compression. Disconnect one of the plug wires, attach it to an old plug, and touch it to the ground on top of the valve cover, while someone cranks the engine. I was in a local parking structure when I had stalled it going into gear. The silicone grease assists in heat transfer. It pretty much felt like I had run out of gas, even though I had a half tank left. Autozone and Orielly will both test starters off the vehicle , I'm sure other auto parts stores do as well. Is this part of the ignition switch? You don't have to remove a plug.
Background: The car has about 125k on it. I have to pump the clutch several times before it will even start to crank. We recommend avoiding this model year like the plague. Take the spark plug wire off the plug itself… Did you check the battery? If you have good fuel pressure, and the timing is correct with good spark making sure the spark plug wires are on the correct spark plugs , it is most likely a bad sensor. With key turned to accessories and wipers turned on, when I move the positive battery clamp the wipers go on and dash lights as well. . Just for grins pull the valve cover, too easy not to.
Should see spark at the tip of the plug. Do you have bright white spark at all four plugs? It seems the problem was definitely that relay and when this problem occurs during extreme temps or temp changes, I would say try this first. I came home tried to start it and it started, but sounded horrible. I am not getting a code on the computer. Or is it kind of a degenerative problem, where the car slowly deteriorates? Difference Between A No Start And A No Crank Condition There's a world of a difference between a No Crank and a No Start condition. The mechanic changed the igniter and ignition coil.
Ufjeff, There could be more than one trouble code trying to get out of the check engine light. Then get a good thorough tuneup. If you end up replacing the igniter, remember to apply silicone dielectric grease to the back of the igniter, which is mounted to a heat sink. Once you've found out what system is the one not providing one of the three things the engine needs, the next step is to test specific components within that system. I have changed the purge valve, vent valve, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs, the relay going to the injectors, and changed the fuel pump.