I am completely lost, cause i cant find the components, the Ford lingo for parts is all new to me. You only disconnect it when you are running a test for codes. It was really little more than a glorified multimeter, but the manual had some good information for testing most common sensors, and Actron has or at least used to have their users manuals available for download on their website. Does it stay presurized or does it leak down right away? At one time it was welded to the pipe, but all i had to to is give it a good whack, and the whole thing fell off. It is not as wide as the one Tbar4 showed.
This will prevent the electronic ignition from advancing the timing during the set procedure. I worked on my truck again some today. It sounds kinda like an old tractor with just the y pipe for exhaust. My Ignition control modual is ahead of the battery on the passenger side! I checked continuity from spout wire to port 50. It runs great at idle, but it just doesn't seem to have power that another '93 3. Since i don't know what's going on with the spout connector, i'll just assume that the plug near the radiator with the pink wires is it, and it is definitely removed.
I got the distributor positioned with 1 almost dead center with the engine at 0, and it will run, but it doesn't run strong or smooth and it eventually stalls. I have a stock 1990 3. I'm wondering if the timing is advancing like it should because there is no shorting bar in place. Do you know how your spout voltage is? I did the bare wire. Do you have any codes at all? I do get advance with climbing rpm.
This condition will cause dizziness, sleepiness and eventually death. Have an assistant try to crank the engine. I've been looking for a while now, but haven't found it. What happened to Wicked Sludge? Im just glad they are Mustang exclusive! If that doesn't work, than you didnt fix the problem. My truck fires and almost runs, but i need to time it right.
You want as little backpressure as possible. Note: battery voltage was at 11. Wiring should not have to be changed at all. Today i started grinding apart the nasty welds someone applied to the exhaust system that looks like it was pieced together from scrap exhaust tubing. In some Storms, the Haynes manual claims there are up to three connectors. The yellow spark output signal wire is without a section of insulation.
Best of all it's totally free! He cut off the Cat assuming that was the problem, however the problem still remains. Major Fuel smell in exhaust I at first suspected an 02 sensor, but after reading the codes, I am not sure. I don't know anything about the 3. Redwood City, between san fran and san jose. If you have spark, you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wires.
Read… Try resetting the light. What does it looks like, is a sender of some sort or a control module? That's all i see other than a vacuum line that was plugged with a bolt at some point for some reason. All codes are two digits. First on the spout is no. I wil keep plugging away tonight at it, cold rain due tommorow, no garage! The sensor might be heat-soaking and suffering hysteresis.
There won't be a breakout box on the truck. Feel free to email me if you have any more questions at: zach. If voltages are ok, go to step 3. I already did some ohms reading on my spout wires and everything seems to be ok ,,,,well i read 0 ohms so im thinking they are ok Im about to pull my hair out!!! Once proper adjustment has been reached, make sure the distributor is not disturbed until the hold-down bolt can be secured. Free Shipping Offers are for Standard Ground Delivery service and are only valid for shipping addresses within the 48 Contiguous United States. If the result was not satisfactory, separate the wiring harness connector from the ignition module. Firmly apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.