With the , there are millions of them still in use. My main issue is that when the transmission fuse is pulled, the wire from the ignition switch provides sufficient voltage 12-14. I did not drive it before checking though, so don't know if that makes a difference. If… The transmission is not a 2wd or 4wd. The stickers are there, but not a spec of lettering left on them. I also can start with the shifter in drive, take off punching it with the high rpm's it also shifts into drive. One of you mentioned a selenoid on the side of the tranny.
Any suggestions would definetly help. There is a test port on the side of the transmission the gauge screws into so you can watch line pressure. Take care not to burn up the transmission by running it hard while your in the limp mode. After it blinks that code three times, any fault codes will follow. It will vary as you move it.
I recently replaced the U-joints and center support mount on the driveshaft. First, check the condition of the spring found inside the accumulator. The vin shows it's a 93. If it does, clean it them with a piece of emery cloth. Unless I shift the shifter to first or second, it's in third gear. Good luck and hope this helps.
No resistance on anything at all except terminals A and D. Unless someone removed the sticker. Am I looking at a possible short? Tires are all still up and not rotted away so I don't think it has sat for 7 years. Instead of looking for a quick fix to try why not find the problem first before wasting your money on parts you don't need? After extensive research on line I have been told this truck takes a 700R4, 4L60, 4L60E, and a 4L80E I can't seem to find a consensus and I want to order a replacement online and don't want to have to return it because I ordered the wrong transmission. Hello everyone, I have a 94 Silverado 1500 4x4. Look under a 4wd Chevy truck and compare it to your 2wd. The computer will see this slow speed and believe it.
It could also just be simply stuck in its bore. When the ignition is in the on position Battery + voltage is sent to the Trans fuse. This will give you the correct place to start your diagnosis. The transmission was rebuilt 30,000 miles ago too. Finally, take a look at the bore in which the piston rides in. On the transmission the Trans fuse protects shift solenoids; A, B, 2, 3 and the tongue convertor clutch solenoid.
A possible adjustment might help your shifting problem. If it does not check the wiring circuit like I stated in the previous paragraph. My truck's a 94 and I can't seem to find a specific scanner not just code reader that works on it. I can tell you if your having a no reverse problem, the valve body and apply components will have to be inspected. This is a really bad idea. Didn't run when we bought it, but the owner felt it should run.
If you have all 4 gears both of your solenoids are working. It's really easy to test which gear the transmission is in as I live in the mountains in Montana. I haven't pulled the pan yet to check what's in the bottom of the pan. The harness letters didn't match up to the colors. All information on this site is the opinion of its members and not the opinion of the site itself. Refer to the shop manual for the correct voltage readings for your specific vehicle.
It is on in first and second, then turns off for 3rd. So I tested both ways. Chances are the clutch disks are simply worn out. Sometimes that solenoid won't throw a code, but the checkball inside the solenoid will stick causing it not to seat properly. The same analogy can be made with the air flow sensor. Let me know if you need more information. Am I being too cynical, or should I feel this is what they tell everyone? The max tow weight limit is 8000lbs.