Whatever you do with your car door at this point remember that the glass is not in its runners. We're interested in the one with the white plastic clip holding it in place and covered in a white-ish glue. Easy to install, easy to set and change preferences. You can grab the main power harness right under the dash going to the column. The next job is to remove the 3 gold hex screws that are located in the middle of the door panel. Now find and unclip the white connector at the top right of the door that feeds the window motor.
U want to remove the ground from the solenoids with this unit when not activated by rpm triggers which is not happening because when the fuel psi switch has it's pressure it's grounding providing power to the soelnoids at wot. They are almost the worst. Sorry to dig up old posts, but I'm hoping this new addition will be of interest to some people and hopefully useful too. Here is my tech thread with msd trying to figure out what the problem is. Quick tips: Remember to mark all the screws you remove to help when it comes to putting it all back together again. This is where the de-soldering wick comes in handy! It just means you need to reposition the damaged clips so that two damaged ones don't sit next to each other. Which wire are you using to add the ground or take it away? There should be no ground.
You need to close the door so that the door switch interior light switch is fully depressed. Or, you could tap in to the proper pin on the cars computer and get the tach signal that way. Eventually, towards the end of the thread was the link I passed on to you. A small flat head screw driver pushed hard into the plastic release clip should allow you to pull it free without too much difficulty. Make sure the window glass is safely positioned in the door. Do not use the window auto-closing function.
With a small flat head driver carefully remove the sealant making sure not to damage any of the wires or connectors beneath. Remove those screws with a Posi Driver and the motor will be free and ready for repair. Nissan needs to fix our nightmare. I went round the door card looking for scratches, gouges and general marks of a scruffy job and found nothing, not a mark or a scratch could be found. Once removed you'll see 2 bolt headed posi screws at the far left and right of the plastic trim. Like I thought, that was a waste of time didn't even come close to being stable, and it never read any lower then 1200rpm when the car was at a idle.
Get inside the vehicle and close the door. Cheers Chubbs All hail eyedee, I've had my Zed for just under a month now and lo and behold what should happen the other day but my drivers side window failed on me. So the red 8ga wire in your pic is actually a ground? That was the only thing I could think of that could cause it to malfunction because I had the + hooked up to one of my widebands +in. This is an ongoing problem. Tape will always come undone with the heat, which is super dangerous on a power wire, the heatshrink will last forever, and it looks much more 'factory finished'.
I'm betting on needing a different tach signal wire. Trust me by the time they got back to me it was pretty useless anyways. I'm sure i read somewhere that Nissan charged £600 for their motors, Autolec got me a new i presume pattern one for £265-00. Whatever you do with your car door at this point remember that the glass is not in its runners. They also need to be shortened if the 'head' of the brush protrudes from the housing by more than a couple millimetres when pushed all the way back against their springs otherwise the magnetic motor driver won't fit back in. I don't think just tapping in to your coil will work reliably, although I could be wrong. Remove the metal door panel and store somewhere safe.
The result of this is due to burning of oil which the manufacturer has no idea of what causes this! I would almost bet you're not going to gain any actual voltage to the inside of the coil using a 8ga over using, say a 12ga, in this instance. Do this with a spanner or socket wrench. And the ground couldn't get any better. I'm really interested to see what you got going on!! Pull the lever toward you as if opening the door and you'll see a curved plastic cover with a rubber stop bung sat within it. I've seen some weird stuff happen with signal feedback and ground loops, which is probably what you had going on. Good grounds and connections, decent gauge wire. The 'tech' guy at intellitronix didn't even know that they can be set from 0rpm.
I had the vehicle taken to the Nissan dealer where I almost had to fight with the sevice rep to get it taken care of under warranty! Do not release the switch before the window is fully closed. As for Autolec, i'd recommend them to anyone especially considering they'd never had a zed in their workshop before. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. I explained the problems that i was having and asked if they could push the warranty company for a new motor. I was taken back by the fact that the window switch I received did not work properly.
With the carbon brushes sanded and fitted into the housing place the retaining springs back in position. I have tried many different wiring methods and still nothing. I took my car in yesterday and i'm missing her already. Operation is smooth as what I expected the first time around, but you do get bad parts from time to time. Let off then pull up once more and hold it in the up position for approx. The contact stated that the same window motor had to be replaced one and a half years ago. I'm pretty dam sure they just sent me two garbage switches- Turbon8er wrote:where do you have each wire going? Door De-construction: Start off by removing the vertical silver trim that adorns the inside handle.
Do not tap the blue wire, those are the ground wires. The current mileage was 112,500 and failure mileage was 100,000. The window glass should partially move Down. I just hope there is no delay. They checked the regulator which is fine but confirmed that the motor was knackered. Just got back off the phone with their tech guy and they are going to send me another one. Car hasn't seemed to run right since.