I specifically told the person it was for a sprinter and they sold me ordinary motor oil. This gear head prefers to do his own scheduled maintenance as long as expensive equipment and expert technical knowledge is not needed. Can you document this claim? The bottom line is that using an oil from the 229. If my vehicle ever flagged an early oil change, I would do that, too. And, there are quite a few that are junk based on actual testing. That does look simple with the exception of the reference to. If money isn't an object then the dealership service is the easy path.
I have to wonder what the Sprinter fleets are doing, e. It is authored by Stevens Service, an experienced diesel service shop which as I read, is on the front lines for diesel owner issues. I'm guessing that's what the fleet's do. If correct, we are in a serious and expensive situation. I have never gotten rid of a car that was less than 10 years old.
. We see so many German engines need replacing at 80-90,000 because of oiling problems. You will discover that most of the hits are from law firm websites. There's plenty of shear protection in a 30 and it ain't gonna go much more than 100C anyway. That is kind of the conclusion of the Stephen service letter, to use 229.
My interval 2012 Sprinter is 10,000 miles. Dollar bet to you Sir. For me and mine, it has worked. Shelving in picture is included with the sale. .
Or maybe wait another 6 months or so? If I may ask on this thread. Cold engines are hell on oil with short trips. A work colleague asked me to check his car. Two different parameters need to be understood. I guess I agree with you, although perhaps for a different reason. I think the idea is to send oil and money to the oil analysis folks until you come to believe that the recommendations in your Operator's Manual are just fine or not, although I doubt it.
My Unity is 1 year old, 8,500 miles and the dash says service in 6,500 miles. I didn't want to worry that I had missed something. I had our first A service done at the nearest dealer a year or so ago. The duff air cleaner is letting dirt into the engine. They actually perform the same in the overlap. Possible, but I haven't heard of it.
Simplest vehicle to change oil I've ever owned. Wait for the total milage appear 3. I really have no idea, but since I don't normally drive in Winter except for an extended trip to go South , I see no reason to change from 5W40. And found my own flaws in not reading things carefully sometimes. A lot less than the cost of an engine, no? Oil is cheap compared to an engine We're driving close to 20K the first year and I have the feeling the warranty will run out from mileage not time. Since 2010 Petronas shows on the formula cars.
It all makes sense except that sometimes the forced engineering changes have unintended consequences. Not only sludge but deposits on the oil passageways. Engineering rarely has the last say in anything. Decide what is important, what really matters to you and act on that. My concern is that adhering to B5 using any grade higher routinely is not covered by warranty or less biodiesel isn't always possible, and that you be using B6-20 biodiesel more times than you may know given the pumps don't always tell you the correct grade. I'm not going to mention brands by name, don't want any legal problems. The result would be a very expensive solution.
However, don't use the complexity or expense of the vehicle as your justification. This gear head prefers to do his own scheduled maintenance as long as expensive equipment and expert technical knowledge is not needed. Towing a boat back for 1200 cash. Ah, on that note, perhaps I'll get the kit and see what they'll charge to do it! Then there is being a good steward. Has anyone had one of these engines fail before the warranty period is up? The idiots had drained the transmission pan and overfilled the engine. There are many variables in deciding how often and where to obtain service. There is a very scary article circulating on the Web.