The driveshaft going towards the rear of the truck powers the rear axle, and the driveshaft going to the front powers the front axle. Might have to move or remove skid plates to get access. This article applies to the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2014-present. Every 15-20K is normal changing intervals. Wouldn't hurt to do it; might not need it. But do not pay the dealer for what can be done a lot cheaper at home. I would have at least two bottles.
Most of my mileage has been towing a 2,800 lb travel trailer. I figured the cover had to be pulled on the back. It should have been changed at the first 5000 miles after the break in heat cycles. Wouldn't take much to do the same with the 1500 diffs. After the lower bolts are out, you can lift, or gently pry the cover away from the housing, and the rest of the fluid will drain out. I had a client that had over 700k on his truck. At first couldn't find it, but it was recessed into the forward bottom of the diff more towards the input shaft.
I thought he meant on the front. Could be as simple as the position of the asymmetrical center section. I recommend full synthetic lubes, and personally believe Amsoil will give you the best protection. At first couldn't find it, but it was recessed into the forward bottom of the diff more towards the input shaft. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.
At some point, something will go wrong. You can do it for far less, with better materials. As for that article, i read through most of it but didn't really come to a conclusion. Depending on its position when it was last filled. This article applies to the Chevrolet. If it ain't right, don't do it.
I noticed it was written by Amsoil so figured it might be a little biased but who knows. If you can't get the fill plug out, then you don't want to proceed with draining the fluid; otherwise, you're stuck until you do get it out. I tried searching here and on google to find nothing. I've been thinking of doing the trans and gear boxes, but wasn't sure I could do it without the stuff I had in the Jiffy garage. Yeah, it does seem stupid that the 1500's don't have a drain plug on rear diff. To do this, I tightened the bolts lightly by hand, and then used my socket wrench to tighten them using a star pattern, similar to mounting a tire.
Also believe you can re use the gasket. It should take right around 1. This article applies to the Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2014-present. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level. On my Camaro I changed the cover on the Moser 12 bolt axle just because I wanted a drain plug. Depending on your size, you may be able to slide under the truck fine; otherwise, you may need to put the truck on car ramps to give yourself a bit more room. I think I see where to empty it, but not sure and I'm very lost on where to fill it.
This article applies to the Chevrolet. Want to make it last? Drain plug with metal shavings on it. Be prepared as the fluid will rush out quickly. I just couldn't look around enough to be sure. You'll be surprised at the amount of wear metal in there from the break in process. Do it now, it's cheap and easy.
Learn how to change your own differential fluid! I also have my moms car on it. If so, then it might be time to replace the power steering pump. So Synthetic won't hurt anything in the front, just pricier? If I remember correctly the differentials are suppose to be good for 100,000 miles. The main reason the front was not filled with synthetic was cost. The plug is to fill, just fill to top of the hole and you're good to go. But for the cost of the fluid and how little often so to speak you do it, you have better protection in the long run. Also what is on the front diff drain plug magnet.
Glow plugs are not interchangeable with all model years. I found the drain and might have spotted the fill. Once the fluid is changed then yes, if you don't do any towing or hauling 100k is the normal interval. I can't imagine no one has ever changed it. On my truck, I have 10 bolts. At least they do on the 2500's.