But if you do start thinking about extended oil changes I also recommend sending an oil sample to an independent laboratory such as Blackstone so that they can better advise you. But for some, it couldn't matter more. Your turbo engine needs synthetic; even if you have to use 5W20 if 0W20 is not available, go for the synthetic. I bought the car with 31K. You need 3 things: a roll of dark masking tape, blue works really well, a medium to large flat screwdriver a 2 works well, and a wall with a level flat driveway, your garage door may work if you have a level flat driveway. Full synthetic oil is rated safe for 6 month or 6000 miles in most cases. Its not going to hurt running the 5W20 in it instead but next time mention it at write up.
All… To begin remove trim panel above radio and glove box by gently prying up from left side of trim with small screwdriver snap-in posts,4 total be careful on right side because it hooks in, angle the whole panel off dash. Once you start thinking about extended oil change intervals or racing that's when high quality synthetics such as amsoil become worthwhile options. After pouring 2 quarts of oil in it my dipstick is completely coated. I just bought a new Mazda 6 and the manual explicitly states 4 months, 8000km so I'm assuming that Mazda has been this for all cars prior. It is a borderline scam.
Make sure the car is perfectly level and drain the old out. Everything is going fine but my dipstick is awful and I can't even measure the reading on it. Any 0W-20 is probably acceptable; that said, for our car it is only the Mazda oil with moly. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. He can run 5W20 in it if he wants and it definetly won't hurt but if it was my car I would run the oil mazda says to put in it. I would agree on 5000 miles.
Also, if the dealership was doing it, any warrenty claim would be hard to deny. It would be easier to find out the oil type now, pick it up at the store while on the way home, so I don't have to waste time taking the bus all the way home, check my oil type, then head out again on the bus just to pick up oil when I can do it now. As far as what type of oil i have also read very good things on the T6. I read where it was a bit thinner and better for starting. I bought the car with 31K. Dealership says this lubricant and skyactiv technology in the engine higher compression ratio contribute to the high gas mileage about 40 mpg on hwy and 33.
Oil can get very technical and can develop into a long discussion. The 's' is only available in the top-level Grand Touring trim level as of the 2013 model year. I've found the amount for the same model but SkyActiv and not sure if my car would be any different. Is it really safe to keep the factory oil for that long? You're under warranty to stay within their oil change interval and as the pervious poster said any 0w20 is fine. My father had same issue.
Different readings would only come from not putting the dipstick in all the way. The 710 cap, depending which way you look at it. The 'i' Sport is only available as a 4-door sedan, all other trim levels are available as a 4-door sedan or 5-door hatchback. Prior to about the 2010 time line most manufactures were still suggesting conventional or semi for their cars. Almost everything that an owner needs to know is in there.
Almost everything that an owner needs to know is in there. This has made an amazing difference in shift feel for many, many people. We'll fix you up with the proper oil at a great price. Btw since you're a Mazda tech you might like my rebuild thread I think it's somewhere here and definitely on Mazda3 revolution. We disclaim all warranties of any kind. I don't believe the Mazda oil is any better for starting, however, the extra moly is a great anti wear additive as well as a friction reducer for better fuel economy.
The in also uses 0W-20 oil for its calculations, so if you want to have it remaining, then it is best to stick with the recommended one. Now, its possible that I'm under the 'harsh climate' schedual and it might be different in other climates. Get the best oil type for your 2012 Mazda 3 when you visit your nearest Firestone Complete Auto Care. I read where it was a bit thinner and better for starting. For reference I'm a Mazda Tech, but from the time I start the engine to actually checking the oil level is a few minutes, so maybe this is why I've never had an issue. .
Open owner's manual and read, and you will see that things are not as strict as you imagining. What kind of oil does Mazda recommend using? If your vehicle was originally charged with R12 refrigerant, for example, the oil type specified, 'mineral', will not apply. Primary reason for the change was 0W-20 provides a little bit better fuel economy. A clamp will not work. Jul 8th, 2014 12:36 pmI don't have my car on me and I need to pick up a bottle of engine oil before I get home.
Is any fully synthetic 0-20w probably okay, or should I really get the Mazda oil with Moly? If you get a chance could you take a picture? Now some of the older engines that have a shitty depression in the dipstick, they are awful to read. For some people, it doesn't matter who works on their car. Make: Mazda North America Model: 3 2nd generation import Submodel: 3 2nd-gen. Edit: I would also prefer to run what mazds would suggest, I'm just saying that it likely is not be that bad. Some product and company names mentioned on this site may be trademarks of their respective owners.