Do not get any anti-seize on the electrode at the bottom of the new spark plug. It is an Iridium platinum spark plug. Apply a small amount of to the opening of the rubber dust boot at the bottom of the ignition coil. Torque for these spark plugs is 14 foot-pounds. Do not use a socket wrench or flexible extension for this process because their force damages the spark plug. If there are any signs of cracks in the porcelain insulator of a plug, don't use it.
Double check that the spark plug is tight before continuing on to the next steps. Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. They should have been prelubricated - should have some white-ish deposits on there. Also, it's often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. Get the one that dom linked in his post - don't really need anything fancier than that socket.
Anyway, I also discovered I don't have a plug spanner long or thin enough to reach the plug, which leads me to my question. To remove the coil pack, loosen the 10 millimeter bolt that's holding it into the head. I have changed lots of plugs on bikes, cars, outboards etc and don't envision any dramas with this simple little motor. Repeat for each spark plug in sequence. Same size, same design, this one's actually not too bad, but the new one will fit great and work great in your vehicle.
This will help prevent it from becoming stuck to the tip of the new spark plug and keep out moisture. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. Might not even be cast correctly to being with. You can help reduce that chance with a little lubricant on the rubber insert. Push the lock in and pull it off. Turn the socket to the left to unscrew and remove the spark plug from the cylinder well. Use a five-eighths spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs.
This might do the trick, can't get my normal deep sockets down the plug hole, its too tight. In 2001 and 2002 models, theses are on the front and back of the engine. If you hit resistance unscrew and try again. Turn to lock it into place. Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. I was confident that it was nothing serious as the car has only done 135,000 kilometres 80,000 miles and has full service history provided by its one previous elderly owner.
Using it's cap, not the wire , pull out the first plug lead. To remove them, well this tab is broken, but if the tab is not broken you push the tab in, pull it out. Posted on Jun 30, 2010 First you will need the correct size spark plug socket and a longer extension bar for it. Pull back to remove the plug from the engine. Probably about time we treated it to a fresh set of plugs anyway.
It is possible that the nose of the socket extension has projected too far into the socket - causing it to bump against the top of the plug. Ceramic plugs are going to give one day, and be careful not to snap a plug in there. If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. Here is a guide on how too change your spark plugs. I'd double check that the plug really is too long for the socket - test it with the new plugs.
Sounds like you got one to use - so just return the other one, if you can, and use the magnetic socket one. Not only do they prevent overheating, but they're also built for extremely high pressures, giving you lasting performance and speedy start-ups. Install the new coil, and put it down over the spark plug. Cover should just slip off, let me put that aside. Allow the engine plenty of time to cool. At first I thought it was the injector but later found the spark plug cap was proud of the cover due to crud around its base. I have to let the rubber get broken in from use per say.