Maybe your gf's dad can help you. What we need to do is identify what we need to know. If both of these maneuvers stops the sound, I think that would support my hypothesis. Rre's clutch and flywheel tech info 2gclutchadjustment 43311 bytes. I really like my xB and plan to keep it for quite some time yet, so sometimes I consider the idea of getting another transmission from a junkyard and swapping it in. How fix that loose parking brake scionlife you get this name lunapic1268026746708935gif views 962 size 1797 kb.
What year is your car? Â In terms of reliability, my 2005 Scion Xb has in every way lived up to what it looks like: a refrigerator. Something is still wrong with your car after two tries at fixing it. Feel free to ask me whatever about fixing it. I pulled the tranny again to check my work took pictures of everything to reassure myself the clutch plate was installed correct as well as clutch release bearing. So is there any free travel before the noise stops? We cannot know the answer based on what we, you and us, know.
With the clutch depressed and the car stationary, the transmission shafts will be static or rotating at a much slower speed than the engine. The input shaft has contacts on the pilot bearing; the throwout bearing; the bearing and seal of the shaft entering the transmission, and then the bearing on the far end. Two ways you can do this. A new clutch and pressure plate helped, and trading the Esky on an auto Ford Sierra made the noise go away for good haha. Maybe the transmission input shaft is out of round or off-centered? Which just happened again 15 minutes ago, while running an errand.
Long story short her father was an auto mechanics 20 years earlier. I thought about a pedal adjustment but I don't want to bandage the problem I want to fix it. I tore everything down and replaced the clutch release bearing clutch disk and pressure plate. When the clutch pedal is released there should be some clearance between the bearing and the fingers. I can include pictures and tips for easy installation that I leaned during my install. It would drive me crazy because I would focus on the issue every time I got into the car.
I will mention the new clutch disk had 6 springs as opposed to the 4 on the old one. Repair guides clutch master cylinder autozone. I just found my way to, and it confirms that release bearing noise happens when the clutch is depressed, not released. And my final point Paul, our 2001 Focus had a light noise with zero clutch pedal pressure, sort of a ticka ticka ticka. Component was fine, the connection not so much… I would have acheived the same result by simply removing and reinstalling the original. Keeping my foot under the clutch pedal and applying constant pressure to keep it fully out solved the problem but gave me awful cramp.
And keep thinking about it after I get out. With a clear tube on the slave no air comes out. A Toyota shop technician should be able to tell whether they lubricate or replace anything related to the input shaft during such a job. But it did that day, right in front of their desks. Only when the clutch is depressed, do the fingers bear on the collar and hold it stationary.
There is no correlation in the temp of the vehicle and the sticking. Are you on a stock clutch? The Focus finally got a new clutch 7 years later which cured the tick as well. Also I read there was a regular? So what exactly are the odds of me getting two randomly-bad Toyota release bearings in a row? With the clutch depressed, the problem point is relieved of pressure. It looked and drove truly like brand new given that it only had 14,200 miles. Clutch Masters are supposed to be good but I have heard some grumblings on other vehicles. This can also cause clutch chatter when starting out. Out of desparation I met with the busniess manager and they agreed to let me pick up an extended warranty in case something like this came up again.
The only way to answer that is to know what the throwout-bearing replacement kit includes. The cotter pin is on the opposite side of the pedal, so it's kind of hard to see. That's how the stock engagement is setup. You will want at a minimum of a Stage 2 upgrade. I am not going to be messed around. Could it be a transmission bearing; or something else? There is alot of different clutch facing materials and I am not exactly sure the pros and cons of each. Any input on a good clutch would be? Once you get all the air bubbles out, you will be good.