Do the bolt holes and the alignment pins line up so that you can at least bolt the manifold down? I think I might have damaged the crank shaft positioning sensor. I have rebuilt these engines entirely, they're not hard to do. I do not know why the fusion parts did not work for him I just wanted to let you guys know. I dont have a lot of experience with engines but i spent hours on end learning. So I started the procedure to switch over the crank pully and I followed all the directions but I might have missed a step. Does it matter which way the gear is positioned? I also scribed a couple marks on the cog ring that aligned to the cam timing position notch so I could locate its exact position on the fusion cam.
The entire steering column had to be replaced. It also goes away when the exterior temperature cools down. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the contact was advised that the transmission would need replacing. Ergonomically speaking, however, all gauges can be seen in a quick glance. However, Cosworth still casts the heads and blocks. So what i did was seal the passageways on the mazda timing cover to prevent any possible pressure lost in the timing cover. Detach all the block heater wiring harness retainers and position the wiring harness aside.
It started to do it when it gets cold outside and after driving it. I bought the car not running so it could have came with the faulty sensor. Ford attempted to quiet this in 2008 with roof sheetmetal changes and new liners between windows and the ceiling. That wheel is thin sheet metal and those teeth do bend easily. Crankshaft Pulley and Crankshaft Position Sensor - The Mazda 2. I've been following the fusion swap for a long time both on the forums and through doing my own swap. The photo in the guide is a manual transmission while you have an auto so the ground locations may be different.
The studs for the alternator had to be removed from the fuzion motor. The failure and current mileage was unknown. That was at about 60000 miles and out of warranty!!!! Am in the middle of swapping out a 2. Here are my observations after looking at your posts: 1. I do know that all the specs are exactly the same between the two years. Ignition setup - In 2003 - 2004 the Mazda 6 had spark plugs, spark plug wires, and one ignition coil-pack that drove the four spark plugs.
Then the motor started knocking pretty bad. I did as the instructions provided by this site and it was great. I did not discover this until everything was installed and I was ready to fire it up. Guess that's one more thing I can add to the guide : The injectors are the same through on all first gen Mazda 2. Also remove the top plastic engine cover - it is snapped into place so just pull on it to remove it. I have a 2006 mazda 6 2.
But it still purrs like a kitten. Fuel saving features include adaptive knock control and aggressive deceleration fuel cutoff. You will be able to do the swap just like in a Mazda 6, but you will need to use your old crank pulley, your old intake camshaft if they are different, and re-set the valve timing. While you are doing either one of those, check the slack in the chain. In all cases, when you are doing a 2.
We believe it is an issue with their parts and labor and not the actual vehicle. Either way I am familiar with the lock override that most older cars have. I want to avoid messing with the timing or to have to replace the intake camshaft. I looked at this thread and it says just switch the intake cam, timing cover and crank pulley, thats fine and I have done that except I am looking at the timing cover from the 04 and on the inside of the cover it has 2 holes, one toward the top like where the engine mount is and one above the crank looking at the 04 engine it has those two holes and looks like it is an oil passage to feed the timing chain tensioner. I've heard of people using the 07 engine and I used a 06 for this guide.
Upper intake plenum removal for access to rear spark plugs. Thank you for all of that info! Ford would not pay for the repair because my mileage was beyond warranty. I have never done this for a Mazda before and wanted to know how to check or adjust the timing. Assuming the Quote below covers what needs to be swapped between the two motors, I will need Timing cover gasket, Valve cover gasket, and intake and exhaust. Sebastian, it sounds like you need to read the guide again from the beginning and carefully follow it, step by step. The crank pully for the jdm engine is different than mine, it has teeth all around the pully and mine has two sets of teeth I don't know exactly if it's a different size pully or just looks different. Sorry I should have been more specific.
The oil pressure sensors are different between the Fusion and the Mazda so they have to be swapped. This is not a rocket scientist device. I called Ford consumer hotline -- they refused to do anything. Didn't use the timing tools my bad. You need to make sure you are using all these parts from the Mazda: throttle body, crankshaft pulley wheel, intake camshaft, timing cover, etc.