Fuel filter replaced, fuel pump checked out working properly, and injectors are running fine. The engine revved completely up with rpms and I finally just threw it in park in road and turned car off and called insurance for tow truck. So I put the battery on a trickle charger and took a look at the battery cables and terminals, there was quite a bit of corrosion so I bought brand new cables with terminals and put them on. Vehicle would not restart for about 30 minutes. Mechanic cannot find anything wrong with the car, but it runs terribly.
The Dealer Was Unable To Provide A Cause For The Failure And The Vehicle Was Not Repaired. Install the new alternator assembly by reversing the above procedure. For some reason, it seems the Taurus is the worst when it comes to this issue. This Is A Serious Issue That Has Gone On For Quite Some Time And ford Needs To Fix It. No instrument lights come on when this happens.
The Contact Owns A 2007 ford taurus. We will take it back to the shop to see if they can figure it out. Instead, It Was Towed To The Dealer Who Was Able To Run A Better Diagnostic Which Appeared To Be The Alternator, But It Could Also Be The Computer. The Contact Stated That A Warning Chime Sounded And The Check Charging System Warning Indicator Was Illuminated. If you notice that your headlights dim or your battery won't stay fully charged, it may be time to replace your alternator or other related parts.
The Symptoms Presented At The Time Of Failure Were: The Car Did Not Start, And The Anti-theft Light Was Blinking. However, I am amazed at how easy it is to disconnect the cable from the throttle body. The Car Was Jumped And The Vehicle Was Brought In For Service. The Torque Converter Was Replaced Twice. My thought is that the alternator must not be charging the battery, but I'm not quite sure what my next step should be. I'm not buying anything rebuilt anymore.
Mechanic cannot find anything wrong with the car, but it runs terribly. Determine which alternator your Ford Taurus will need. Please Note, One Report On One Website Has Had Over 600 Views. Problem has been occurring weekly, once or twice a week. The automatic locks started locking and unlocking, the dash lights, alarm system, air bag, check engine, came on and the speedometer and the tachometer went to zero even though I was moving. My wife brought the car to Auto Zone and they tested the alternator,battery,and fuses, and told my wife that the battery was only half charged and that all the fuses were good, but something is drawing the battery. My wife brought the car to Auto Zone and they tested the alternator,battery,and fuses, and told my wife that the battery was only half charged and that all the fuses were good, but something is drawing the battery.
Instead, it was towed to the dealer who was able to run a better diagnostic which appeared to be the alternator, but it could also be the computer. I'm not buying anything rebuilt anymore. The problem never happened for them. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. After the battery was charged I took the car out for a test drive and it drove a little rough and after about 30 minutes the charging system light came back on again! Thank you for your time! Lower the alternator so you can unplug its electrical connections.
Some were driving when the car just 'shut down. Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 74. Use a torque wrench to tighten the B+ connector nut to 71 in. The following are just a few of the complaints that I've found. The Failure Mileage Was 50,000 And The Current Mileage Was 78,000. I pushed as hard as I could on the brakes and car kept accelerating past 85mph and I was now coming into 30mph zone and rpms were high and I tried to put it in neutral cause I didn't know what to do.
Not sure if 2005 is the same, but it's worth a check. My son said I had burnt my brakes. Nobody knows what to fix so I don't know what to fix. So I put the battery on a trickle charger and took a look at the battery cables and terminals, there was quite a bit of corrosion so I bought brand new cables with terminals and put them on. Cant seem to get the problem solved on our 2007. Mount a tool to hold the flywheel so you can remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley.
The Dealership Could Not Find Any Problems. The battery was completely dead to the point where the car wouldn't even allow the electronic locks to work so I had to use the key to open the door. Please Note, One Report On One Website Has Had Over 600 Views. It could actually be the wrong voltage regulator. For a while the vehicle ran ok, then it started to accelerate again for no reason. It has to be the alternator that went bad again. It died on us two times today as we were slowing down on the freeway.
The Failure Mileage Was 50,000 And The Current Mileage Was 78,000. In Researching The Issue On My Own, This Seems To Be A Major Problem With ford Cars And Has Been For Years. Also alternator checked out good, new spark plugs, wires working fine, new battery. Firebird338 I definitely think the alternator took a shit on me after thinking about your comment! It was towed to a Ford dealership. This might include replacing the voltage regulator if it is separate from the alternator. Multiple reports on line about the cowl over cabin air filer. Hoping water leak does not cause a fire if it keeps coming on the way it had been.