Was very expensive but fortunately I had an extended warranty from Carmax that paid for it. I'll look up the parts I bought to make sure I give you correct info. No worries on the adaptor. I decided to tackle it a different way. I read on some Honda forums of using compressed air, they said disconnect both hoses, blow air into one and point other hose to a bucket, keep filling it up with distilled water and blowing it out into the bucket. What makes this one really annoying is that you can't get to the damn thing. Thanks for the kind words.
I disappeared for a little while as I was focusing on other parts of my project but now that it's time to figure out a few engine issues I'm back where the experts are. I'm going to try and document everything well since I think it would work great for a lot of other people. But you could well an steel bungs on those peices and use hose and fittings but -20 would be way to big it would be more like -10 or -12. Will this stop all heaters working though as the coolant will no longer flow in a circuit? Of you leave this open, the wax will never expand and you will have a high idle. Welcome to the forum by the way! I looked back through some posts on here and found someone mention that the heater hoses were 1.
Just glad to see you're back! They are available for the following Nissan Pathfinder years: 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994, 1993, 1992, 1991, 12, 11, 10, 09, 08, 07, 06, 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99, 98, 97, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 91. Thanks for the warm welcome. I apologize greatly to everyone who emailed me about the Mazworx adapter. I apologize greatly to everyone who emailed me about the Mazworx adapter. Yea im still one here , typically every day although i dont post much. Then operate the engine with water only warm up, stop, cool, then completely drain and be sure the heater is drained, Fix your problems as discussed elsewhere then fill the coolant system making sure the heater is set to hottest. Well i dont have the tb lines or an iac valve on this motor or the last, and just adjusting the throttle plate i was able to get rock solid idle 850 rpm but then again we dont have real big temperature swings here where im at lol.
Our online parts catalog uses real-time inventory, so you can be assured the parts you buy are in stock at the time of ordering. Essentially they have to lift the body off the frame to do this. If you can use rubber at each end to reconnect to factory. I decided to tackle it a different way. Finally, I found that the aluminum lines had corroded through next to the exhaust above the rear shock mount on the passenger side. Appreciate the feedback from everyone!!! I just put these damn things on so it would be nice to not have to pull the head and replace the gaskets and bolts.
And watch the coolant color come out the other side? I want to flush my heater core, people have mentionned using a garden hose but wouldnt that leave tap water in the core after you were finished? The core itself was rusted out and I kept smelling coolant. The line that runs across the top of the block to the main coolant junction can just be shortened and flared. Next step now is to find a way of capping the pipes off just before they disappear up into the frame and do away with rear heat altogether. This coolant system is gonna be good working soon!! Of course I'm always on a budget but I just want to do things right. Perhaps garden hose should be avoided and flush with distilled water somehow?? I already did this wrong once so my second attempt better work! I had looked over that and basically just capped them off like you can see in the picture. Really simple, cheap and easy. I routed and secured the new hose to make sure it would not rub or be pinched and everything seems fine.
Don't see why you wouldn't want to leave it and have the 625-650 rpm in street driving. T45 wrote:I'm still working on it, trying to decide what in the hell to do with it. I'm just not getting any heat from the rear vents. Fill and vent then make sure expansion tank is at mark, test run. .
Not totally clear how this works. After checking on this forum, I saw that this is a common problem where the vehicle is exposed to salt truck spent first 2 years of its life in Pennsylvania and is a very expensive repair. Would blowing compressed air in the heater hose lines clear any blockage? Make sure you actually run these lines to the throttle body. Does it matter how much pressure?? This picture shows exactly what happened with my rear coolant hoses and why I'm having problems. I think there might be alot of people who would love to see them. On most cars these serve to warm the throttle chamber and prevent freezing of the throttle plate in cold weather.
Do it once do it right is often a lot cheaper! SuperHatch wrote: No worries on the adaptor. I assume if the lines are bad it will leak all the time and I should be low on coolant? Fortunately it didn't happen while the engine was running, but I need to do something about it. Turn on the car heater to the hottest, then purge out the coolant from the engine, run the garden hose through till clear. Worked perfect from the get go. With the cheap rubber parts store coolant hose I've got it comes straight out the back and has to make a sudden turn before the firewall which ended up cracking them. Make sure you actually run these lines to the throttle body.