I disassembled some of the dash today. It doesn't make sense to put the same parts back in just so you can do it again in a year or 2. As soon as I get the engine bay painted I just got done tearing everything out of the bay and am getting ready to prep for paint! I have felt the same way that you do about other vehicles and therefore I don't buy them anymore. We have been cutting out the rotted sections and replacing them with rubber lines. You have two heater cores if you have rear temperature controls.
Don't plan any Tahoe trips. The plastic portion is definitely the Achilles' Heel here. I also painted the bracket separately black. Their high-performance heating coils deliver excellent results and raise lukewarm air to the temperature you need to stay comfortable on the road. I also didn't see any way to remove the heater core box without removing the lateral dashboard support tube which runs from left to right across the entire dash.
Starting in the lower corners, gently pry the entire interior panel from the hatch, and leave it hanging from the wiper area near the glass. But I thought I'd look to see what it takes to actually replace the heater core. This has been the one vehicle that will take how I use it and keep on riding! Take care all and good luck! Grasp the bulb housing and twist to the left while pressing inward. I have a 85 nissan 720,mine has both sensor and sender,the sender operates the gauge on dash,the sensor sends signal to the brain. My question is, what is this actually called what is it's exact purpose? Oct 29, 2012 the blower motor is not working. As soon as I get the engine bay painted I just got done tearing everything out of the bay and am getting ready to prep for paint! Just sand it so it's smooth and you may have a few spots where it's bare, but not likely. I painted the tray separately and installed it.
The heater pump circulates the hot coolant from your engine to your heater core s. On the other hand, my dad told a story about a car that didn't have a heater in a midwest winter in the early 1940s. I am just now having a few issues but it's wear and tear. There's a post on it here in the Nicoclub forums. Here is the final product. A few weeks ago it started showing the telltale signs of a leaking heater core.
At this point the noise in the vehicle was so loud and annoying that your ears hurt after 5 mins. Any thoughts on where I can look to find the step-by-step process of replacing the heater core? Plus, they repair existing punctures and holes that release moisture into your cabin, so you don't have to bother with constant fog on your windows. There's no way to test it,just have to replace and see if it solves the problem. So when is the engine finally going in this beautiful project of a Z, Morgan? I also elimated the second bleed point at the same time. Hey all, I scowered this site a month or two ago looking for similar probs i had with my pathfinder so I thought i would post so other ppl could see my fixes. I'd estimate that the entire job would take a full day. One is just in front of the firewall, top dead center, a rubber cap.
. These 2 pipes are about 11 feet long and a single unit and apparently to get them replaced you have to lift the body away from the frame to replace them. I live where there are two to three dealerships in about a 50 mile radius. The closer one is always more expensive and it's where I bought it! If the fan will not blow, then the fan assembly may need to be replaced. It is system which can tax the patience of the best of diagnosticians. A vehicle as young as yours rarely has a bad core.
I thought that the company would have stood more behind thier product seeing the problem was such a stupid one at low mileage and just outside warrenty period. The biggest thing is to have a super clean surface that has been sanded smooth enough to accept paint without showing the scratches. This is clearly a beginners level flaw in design and should be acknowledged by a recall. I then carefully prepped, sanded, primed it. If you are not leaking coolant into the passenger compartment, then the core is probably not the problem.
I bought mine new, and Nissan told me to screw at 70K. Took the opportunity to also order all new coolant hoses that come anywhere near The Beast, including the thin hoses going to the throttle body that I had to cut off to remove the engine's intake manifold. For the battery area, I removed the plate that unbolts. I really was expecting the same or better from Nissan. Here are some pics from when I shot my engine bay I also painted my Z as well. Am hoping that someone on nicoclub knows and is willing to share a shortcut to replace the heater core without removing and disassembling the entire heater box. Leakage is the prime cause of heater core failure.
Start the engine and wait for the vehicle to warm up to normal operating temperature. No body shop or car restoration place would do this. It can be reset through the use of the ignition key switch. The rear drive shaft U-joints were slowly seizing up over time. You have two heater cores if you have rear temperature controls.
Anyway, not only is quality a major disappointment, but so too is Nissan's position and reluctance to acknowledge defects I have a huge list. My heater core started leaking several months ago, so during the summer I plugged both the inlet and outlet. After some searching, I haven't been able to find anything anywhere on this. Gonna be loads of fun lol. Remove pull handle from the inside of the hatch 2 screws under pop panels.