The diff they meant was the front diff-they are close. The pinion shaft seal is set into the pump. Air filter This is probably the case, but it's super easy to do yourself, and the air filters are super cheap. I doubt the hard shift has anything to do with it. The noise of the bearings inside the differential.
Seal materials have been selected to survive in the particular fluid chosen by the manufacturer and the maker may not have run long term life tests on a variety of seal and lubricant mixes, but only tested the combinations they planned to use. Lasts up to 150,000 miles or five years! I was just at the dealer for my 80 dollar oil change which is ridiculously overpriced, but I was told that if I get it done anywhere else or do it myself, I void the warranty. Without asking, they'd probably check the lubricant levels of the differentials and add some if low. After about 20,000 miles since the last fluids change, it was time for new fluids in my transmission and rear differential. Did the dealership tell you what to use? Part 2: It was also difficult to get the transmission into Park in order to remove the key.
If you're curious about the background to this question, this is my sad story: I have a 2001 Forester automatic that I bought used from this dealership in 2004. So I'd be willing to check myself, I just don't know how to. Use the information in this video at your own risk. While scrambling to get off the interstate, the front end began to bang viciously, and the front wheels periodically locked. From the right lane I moved onto the shoulder-it jerked roughly but remained stuck.
What's got my goat is that until now, my dealership mechanic has only expressed modest concern. David Edited November 5, 2013 by davidsain As I've experienced this twice in my 2000 roo that 237K miles on it, I am wondering why this happens. The sound did indeed become louder, until a new deceleration sound developed. Subaru recommends that it be inspected and possibly replaced at this interval depending on how it looks. Buy Amsoil and you eliminate this problem for a year! Yes the front differential is built into the transmission case. The check engine light, cruise control light was flashing, along with vehicle dynamics control warning light.
I have the pictures around someplace. If you plan to do all of your own servicing, as an alternative, you could drain the differential and refill with your favorite brand. It's illegal to tell customers only Subaru can service their cars. They may not know if they are supplied by Subaru. On our last trip, we hit slow traffic, and while in those lower speeds 30-40 , the car began to buck and shudder. I had my car towed, as it wasn't drivable.
But generally from what I've found, it isn't required. When draining the transmission, it is recommended to see if there is any loose metal in the fluid that may have bypassed the seal and damaged the transmission. Possibly, there could be trouble if the lubricant base types were different such as synthetic mixed with petroleum. I thought nothing of it. Once it goes bad, you replace the tranny. It's just the front differential bearings wearing out.
It doesnt matter if the seals or bearuiings went, as it is too late now. One place were additives can cause problems is the seals. The gears have a lot of meat on them, so it takes a while for them to get where the car wont go anymore. The replacement ring and pinion was probably not set up right. Dif, should I expect a massive transmission failure? If it was the dealer go get your money back because they straight up lied to you.
If you think that I need to buy the whole transmission, please advise also. The reason they said keep driving it, is because the cost to repair worn differential bearings is more as replacing the transmission itself. As long as the pinion shaft seal between the diff and the transmission has not been compromised, it's doubtful there is any damage to the innards of the transmission. And also the Oil pump section sandwhiched between diff and trans body. As I've experienced this twice in my 2000 roo that 237K miles on it, I am wondering why this happens. My dealership is telling me I've had problems with my Front Differential.
You absolutely do have to disassemble the trans, at least partially to replace the Ring and pinion, and the pinion gear. The front differential is in a housing attached to the front of the transmission called the Torque Converter Clutch Case Section. I just need someone else's opinion. Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited. At like 6 - 13 bucks for the filter. But if I legitimately need the things changed, I will get them done.
If you repair it, you may end up with other problems associated with taking the transmission apart, which may render the car just as useless as a blown up differential. It is jam packed with extra engine protection, which allows you to go up to 12,000-miles or one year, whichever comes first, between oil changes! Say, it's a cold winter day and you took the vehicle in to the dealer for some service work. I'm not a car person. There are shims and preload adjustments that must be done correctly to ensure long life from the final drive. The check engine light, cruise control light was flashing, along with vehicle dynamics control warning light. Basically, you drive it until it blows up, then get a new one. In the rear differential I used one quart of Redline 75W90 57904.