I guess, that's just life. It is really bad on Chrysler internal parts. Choose among AutoZone's Sebring thermostats to ensure you don't experience these issues. There are either two or three bolts holding it in place. Remove thermostat assembly, and clean sealing surfaces.
Make sure the spring side of the thermostat faces the cylinder head. My original one started leaking so i changed it out intitially for the two piece unit but it is not made right and hits the upper intake manifold. If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. The thermostat housing is located at the rear end of the top radiator hose. So far I've had no problem with it and all seems fine. Tighten attaching bolts to 105 inch lbs.
The bottom one can be tricky to remove. This is more than a replacement; it's an upgrade. Tighten mounting bolts to 12 Nm 105 inch lbs. Hopefully I can pick the part up locally. Or you may just be struggling to keep it highway-approved. Russell answered 8 years ago Hey, on your car there may be a high point bleed.
Should I have the cooling system pressure checked? Have replaced the unit twice. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the primary weep passage Fig. . The intake needs removed to change the wate outlet though. I think it's been in for maybe 4 months or so.
I was able to separate the two pieces without causing any damage. The coolant will eventually run out the back side of the engine Fig. Follow the top radiator hose. Wonderful - we're getting hammered by a snow storm here and my car is spewing coolant. The housing is made of plastic in two pieces glued together. If you place a trickle charger on it, eventually the battery will require water to be added to it.
The opposite is also possible; the engine could fail to reach the proper temperature because the thermostat allows too much fluid to flow through. Open bleeder it leaks from underneath. Most common for this failure on the 2. The lamps have a locking tab on the plug assembly. I used the more expensive aftermarket 1 piece which comes with the sensor already installed. Remove the right front wheel and belt splash shield.
Remove thermostat assembly, and clean sealing surfaces. It is sometimes easier to put the thermostat into the housing, and then placing the housing in position, and then placing the three screws in as far as possible using your fingers. Coolant leaks: If the shaft seal is leaking, this will be evident by traces of thick deposits of dried glycol running down from the pump primary weep passage Fig. I added some coolant and made it to my destination without any real problems. The mechanic I took it to couldn't get the part for me right away, but put some stop-leak in it and it held for two more weeks. Regardless of which solution you decide upon, I would definitely pay a shop to perform a pressure check.
Fill coolant tank, then properly bleed the cooling system. The quarter inch or three eighth inch universal joint with an extension and a standard depth socket is almost required for the bottom bolt. Loosen the hose clamps and then disconnect the two hoses from the thermostat housing cover. I expect that with the expansion and contraction of any air pockets with thermal cycling, the system should draw more fluid into itself. There are either two or three bolts holding it in place. Re-tightened it and presto, no more leak!! I had it in there for 2 months which was 4500 miles for me and the darn thing sprung a leak. Air and antifreeze starts hissing out from around the base of the whole housing.
I guess, that's just life. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Verify proper pressure cap part number. The lamps have a locking tab on the plug assembly. It can be very tricky to get it into proper position while replacing it and putting the housing over it. Disconnect battery negative cable from remote negative terminal on shock tower and properly isolate to prevent accidental reconnection.