We offer a lifetime warranty on the functionality of the cluster and gauges. I noticed that when I start the car, the speedometer will jump down about 10 mph. Had the same thing on my Chevy Tahoe. If only a portion of your instrument panel is functioning, such as your lights work while the speedometer does not, get your car to a pro. I had tried several other places, but none of them were able to fix my Odometer error and reprogram my mileage. You may need to tilt the steering wheel down and move the shifter down to make room. For example, while traveling at low, in town speeds, the speedometer will have readings in the 60s, 70s' and 80s.
What if I have light bulbs out too? See pictures to explain this step better Check the connections for the any dry joint - as you can see, the offender is the pin on the end in my case apparently, it's usually this pin. The speedometer would display 60 mph when the vehicle was not moving. After quick dealer diag learned it's a common problem with the instrument cluster. The dealer replaced the cluster program. This services requires that you send us your cluster for repair. This meant that you were unable to see what gear you were currently in, unable to determine the mileage of the vehicle, and unable to use the trip computer. I've seen 6000-7500 lbs listed on other sites, so there's a range of possibles.
If both the odometer and message center are not working, the problem is likely to be a fuse both of these displays share the same fuse. These instrument clusters have a common problem with the gauges sticking, giving incorrect readings, or not working at all. I took the dash out, and the motor was completely seized. Now the speedometer stopped working today. A year ago we bought a used 2003 suburban and of course immediatly all dash instruments began to fail.
This simply pulls off, and requires no tools. The speedometer is stuck at 70, and is not reading correctly. Well I am assuming that it is the same cluster I have in my 05 Silverado, as mine are also soldered to the main board. You need to pull out heater, radio knobs and the radio. It did not do it again until today.
Eventually the speedometer was fully pegged at 120+ mph. Hope this helps someone out there! I have been noticing, though, for a few weeks that the speedometer is clicky when it goes up in speed, it is not a smooth movement, it jumps or clicks up. It could increase easily, but would stick a bit when decreasing. So not a happy camper. There is no way to know how fast I am actually going, if that is not a safety concern then I'm not sure what is. We look forward to serving you.
That leaves just four remaining screws holding the gauge cluster in place, all Philips head screws that are easily accessed. Lower the wheel to the lowest possible 4. The chevy customer service manager claims that it is not a safety issue and they are voluntary replacing cars within the 7 yrs 70,000 miles. Once I checked all fuses, I assumed I had a broken wire somewhere in the circuit going to the gauges. This will pop the surround out on one side, then do the other. Now is a good time to change any bulbs that are burnt out. They claim that this is not a recall.
The manufacturer took a report and stated that they will not assist with the repair. So I decided to leave it until it stopped working all together. Clean the lens before installing if needed. Again that's something a shop would need to look into, see my links above. Now pry upwards with a needle removal tool or even a fork, try to pry straight up and not at an angle, the needle will slide right off the motor shaft.
Replacing the unit is not the best solution, because many of the replacement units often use the same faulty components as the original cluster. It doesn't matter what angle the needle is pointed at this step but, to make it easy slide them on pointing roughly at the 12:00 position. De-soldered the motor and replaced, voila! Only took about an hour and a half. You can disconnect the hazard lights and passenger airbag wires if your model has this , but it won't be necessary. I know this is an new reply to an old post, but for anyone looking for answers to their cluster dying this may be helpful.
Make adjustments to the needle a little bit at a time while unplugged until you get it to point right at the zero mark. We offer an upgrade which includes adding the transmission temperature gauge, a new faceplate and calibration of the gauge. From what I can tell I don't think the 195 is either. But it outside of the manufacturers warranty period. Tried to post this as a new instructable but that keeps crashing. Thank You in advance for purchasing our Repair Service to your 2003-2007 Chevrolet Suburban Instrument Cluster. After stating my case to the first representative I was told there was nothing we could do.