I asked my local dealer service manager about this issue this morning over coffee: he claims it makes servicing easier! Every part in the drivetrain is original, except the rear end. I'm hoping to see 200K out of my Silverado. When it goes out the steering and brakes fail and make it very hazardous to continue requiring me to stop and have some one pick up my truck and haul it home. If you buy a Mag Hytek rear cover, they actually recommend overfilling the axle to keep the bearings immersed in gear oil! I've never changed the differential or front axle fluid, and I've never changed the fluid in the transfer case. . Someone gave all the amounts above.
This is apparently a part common to most 4x4 gm trucks. First thing you should do is remove the transfer case skid plate for easier access. I took the truck to my local dealer, they told me they didn't have time to diagnose the problem right then, but not to worry because the error code would be stored and they could retrieve it after lunch. It engaged into 2h and at that point I figured I had enough. You may want to invest in a gear oil pump of some sort, the type that screws onto the bottle of gear lube, to make filling the front axle easier.
This causes the steering wheel to bind in… On a cold engine I unhook the battery ground and then if you are changing a fuel filter just loosen it to relieve pressure. Here are some of the common issues complained about. The transfer case controls whether you are in four-wheel drive or in two-wheel drive, so it's important to make sure it's maintained properly. During this time we contacted the garage and gm. The fuel filter was replaced.
I'll have to check mine as well. Why not buy Brand X fluid at one third the price?? All 4 by 4 trucks, should use the auto trac fluid. Its a 2013 Silverado Crew Cab 5. I then asked him if that included a new filter. I would not put a regular dino oil in the rear. Mine was at only 600 miles! Complaint Number: 10210384 Incident Date: August 15, 2007 Date Added to File: November 30, 2007 Description of the Complaint: The event leading up to is wet weather.
. Keep doing this until the magnet stays clean, then refill with your gear oil of choice. The power steering fluid was low. You can get a good synthetic at your local parts store. No leaks since, and I've always topped the gear oil off to the fill plug.
The failure mileage was 135,000. Remove the plugs and let the old fluid drain out. The failure recurred numerous times. As I entered the intersection I realized the problem and pressed the accelerator to the floor to avoid getting hit by cross traffic. The new part is just that, new from old defective part.
The contact did not drive over a pothole. Clean everything with a clean dry cloth and replace the magnets if applicable. In other words, use the blue stuff, change it every 50,000 kilometres and you should be all right. I had the truck in five times with transmission problems without a fix. Maby mine has the same problem. Step 2 — Drain fluid Before getting too far into it, you need to figure out whether or not you can fit under your truck.
. I've only towed with it a half dozen times I have the tow package , and the truck literally runs as good as the day I bought it. Don't use anything other then autotrac 2 blue stuff from the stealership. The thing that has been the problem is a vacuum actuator under the battery box that engages the front axle and it ruptures the diaphragm and stops working. But after my three years - 36,000 are up, then I will be following some of the suggestions posted above on this topic. The front hub assembly has also gone out twice on this truck. The axial spline junction on my shaft was too rusted to 'telescope' in for full removal, so taking the yoke brackets off of the front universal joint was enough for the next step.