The 4X4 works with two systems - the shifter on the floor manually engages the transfer case. Vacuum actuator function: This is easy to check. Get the front off the ground and have someone pop it in 4x4 and listen for engagement. Not even the 4 wd lights come on. So, I knew I had a problem from there to the case. Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing.
Rule out transfer case problems: This is easy - get someone to put your truck in 4X4 and roll forward while you peek underneath from the side. I drove in their sandy parking lot and it was working. This got gradually worse over time and it would take longer and longer for it to disengage and the 4x4 light to go off. Check the functioning of the solenoids: this is easy as well. Check out our step-by-step guide that will help you diagnose and fix the problem. Even when my Wife works at a Ford Stealership. Check the vent line tube that is routed into the engine compartment with nothing attached to it , for blockages.
I would have someone with an electrical background check the cruise control switches in your steering wheel with a multimeter before going any further with this. What I would reccommend is going to the Ford dealership and asking questions about the sensor. I like the vehicle but i've just had way to many problems, big problems. Funny that all recalls for this car that are posted on this web-site are small, little annoying, cheap fixes, but we can see a ton of high dollar repairs needed for this piece of crap car. Press tuner button again for 5 seconds. I actually switched the pink and blue hoses around on it to see if it would make it disengage, and it did! Hatch has 2 cracks below the back window, passenger side back door window motor stopped working.
I have a brand new one if anyone wants it. It should have 12V all the time on it, and if not, it may need replacing. Follow the lines down as best as you can, checking for spots with wear or rubbing. If it sticks, like in this picture it needs to be replaced. The vacuum actuator on my front differential housing is functioning properly and the plunger moves freely.
I drove around and shifted in and out of 4wd with no problems whatsoever. I had to go the dealer, snow will be here soon. It's Extremely obvious that this car was made with sub-par materials that do not hold up! I know this is an old post, but I'm experiencing the exact samething. Check, or have checked the wires between the fan control switch and the fan blower motor. Mine were rubbing a bit on the passengers side wheel well so check there.
This system would fail just when when you need it. The solenoid on the right side passenger side that has the blue hose is the one that activates the vacuum actuator to engage the front differential. A couple questions: After the truck cools down and disengages on its own, is there a change in the hose vacuum ie does the pink have vacuum instead of the blue? The easiest way to trouble shoot mine was to get the truck in the air so you can rotate the fronts. I suppose it's possible that a relay or fuse is out. Not good timing for that but somehow my gut did not believe it. All you need for these tests is a friend, and a socket set. That part I bought from Ford 6L3Z 9E441 and included a re-designed hood to stop water intrusion and came with one solenoid 2wd.
I cut this out of the 2005 shop manual for Four Wheel Drive - Electronic. That's where the parts you mentioned come in - and they go pretty regularly. The vacuum should alternate hoses when shifted and the pressure should be equal although it is surprisingly not a strong pull. Well, it is stuck in the open position, but not because it's defective obviously. This is the one that puts the front differential into 4wd. When the truck is shifted to 4X4, the shaft should slide into the diaphragm, moving the lever it is connected to to the passenger side direction. If not then check fuse 23 10amp in the interior fuse panel.
It's up in the kick board? The movement is about 2 inches total and happens smoothly. Never again will I buy a Ford. It was on the T-case. If that doesn't work, use a scanner to check for codes. This is only a real issue on some models of the F-150. I'm thinking the problem I had 2 seasons ago was corrected except the one solenoid that I did replaced ended up seizing 2 years later from water corrosion. If yes, then you have a bad blower motor resistor, which is located under the hood, near the blower motor itself.