Upon checking your website I see that this is not an isolated situation. Kightlinger motors put new part on the next week. All Replacement brand items are backed by 1-year, unlimited-mileage warranty. . Make sure there is nothing in front of you that you can possibly hit.
The goal here is for the limited-slip to kick in and for you to be able to easily drive off the jack. Once you remove the two long mounting bolts, you can wiggle it towards the front of the vehicle to remove it it takes some doing. That is the sign of a healthy diff. Next, pop out the little trim piece around the door handle. Placing the jack under the axle tube on one side, raise the truck just high enough so that one wheel is off the ground and can spin without catching anything below it.
You could also open it up and count the teeth. Most times replacing the diff lube, using posi additive then making tight left and right circles will free the clutch packs. Make sure to thoroughly scrape off all the bits of gasket that will be stuck on the rear diff. All Replacement brand items are backed by 1-year, unlimited-mileage warranty. I heard it was the driveshaft shifting in the ujoint. The additive won't help in that case.
It really isn't that complicated. Since 1918, Dorman Products has supplied the automotive aftermarket with high-quality replacement parts, hardware and fasteners. Rebate Form and Invoice must be mailed to yukonrebates datarebate. There is s serial or model listed on the rear axle housing. Jan 09, 2010 well i had the same problem everyone told me the clutches in the rearend were sticking making it stick in positive traction only your passanger side rear wheel pulls unless you start spinning then a type of clutch engages the other side so you have traction then when you stop spinning it disengages it should never be engaged if your on pavment now you can do what i did listen to everyone when they tell you its normal or you can take it to someone with experience now and save yourself some money cause it will start popping then it will get some viberation then next it will break the clutches and when that happens you will have to replace the pinion,ring,and the spider gears as well as the clutches.
Now some nearly twenty thousand miles later, the rear-end went again. A good depth trick that others have mentioned before is to take a small, bent Allen wrench and dip it into the fill hole. Those should never be used in a locking differential. The dealer still refuses to help. To answer the other question, yes you do have to remove the driveshaft to replace the oil seal. Jack up the car, put the transmission in neutral, rotate the wheel 360 degrees and count the number of tim … es the drive shaft turns. The truck has 82,800 miles on it.
For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. I think the newer trucks like yours have a factory locker. There are four ways to find a ratio. When the truck reached 40,000 mile the differential became completely inoperable. Disconect the little wiring clip and your speaker will be removed! Please call for customer service and availability at 1-800-886-2815.
When you get back, put you hand on the rear cover. I'd check the driveshaft and axle joints for any looseness or binding. Now divide the small into the large And … that will be the gear ratio An easier way may be to simply chock the front wheels, jack up the rear end on the differential, place the vehicle in neutral, and while an assistant turns a rear wheel, count the number of times the driveline revolves for one revolution of the wheel. It can be recycled just the same as engine oil. Hollander® Interchange® is the property of Hollander, a Solera company. I am a self employed person, and without a truck I can not make a living. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
If you purchased the truck used or can't find the code, Step 2 will have another form of testing. My 95 Suburban has one. The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay lash between the components in the driveline. As the rope is removed the rubber sealershould hold the window in position. You might needs to press the new ones in with an arbor press.
Removing the old ones either requires a puller or a cutting torch. Feb 22, 2011 the noise is coming from the clutch plates in the differential, i am assuming that it is posi-trac. Last, replace the bottom drain plug then fill with your preferred fluid. When the truck reached 40,000 mile the differential became completely inoperable. Step 4 — Open the Differential Unless you have done this before, it's recommended to take it to a qualified mechanic for this step. The goal here is for the limited-slip to kick in and for you to be able to easily drive off the jack.