From the starting line my father thought the crank had fallen out the bottom of the motor. As each component of the piston assembly is cleaned and measured, record and identify all measurements. Each part has a recommended quantity provided by the manufacturer, which in this case is Suzuki, and the recommended quantity is already defaulted in the quantity field for each part, so you just simply add them to your basket. I'm starting to wonder if I'm missing something in the carb in particular, around where the float valve seats altogether. I've checked to make sure that it is full seated when the carb is off and I have it apart. Like that I'm surprised it even ran. Thanks for all useful information fellas.
So I took it apart and looked at the float and float valve, because that is where everyone says the problem is. Gasoline and most cleaning solvents are extremely flammable. I put everything back together and started the bike. How did it fix itself? One thing I did notice is that after the bike is off it keeps running fuel out unless I shut off the gas. . Also included is information on how the different jetting systems operate within the carburetor. What would it act like if it were taking coolant in the combustion process? Bought a 2000 rm 125, needed top end.
I didn't want to look at it much last night after it failed for the 4th time now. I hope there isn't something funky going on with the cases in there? Start it up and it clears out and revs hard fast and clean? Found out what was causing my float to stick and fixed that problem. I put it all back together with the new float, float valve and adjusted the floats to the correct height and it still pours gas out the overflow. Thanks, yeah i'm going to pull the head and look, I was careful putting the o rings in they were seated in the grooves when I set the head down. What are the ways coolant could get in. Refer to the table at the end of the chapter for the standard carburetor specifications for each model and year.
Anyway, I got it all back together, rode it, and went great for a little bit and then started to bog like it was going to foul a plug. If you blip it a few times to clear it out it's really responsive actually but smokes quite a bit and just isn't happy idling. Like that I'm surprised it even ran. I'm pretty sure that carb has a drain screw on the bowl, take it out and clean the tip of the screw and the area down in the bowl where the screw seats. I didn't want to look at it much last night after it failed for the 4th time now. Is it possible something got wet. Refer to Chapter Three for throttle cable adjustment and air filter service.
I've hunted around for a few days but can't find anything one way or another. Well, something really really odd has happened. The quantity specified is the amount we recommend you purchase to be able to fit the parts correctly. Do not overtighten them, they only need to be tight enough so that they do not back out. Well, something really really odd has happened. I put it all back together with the new float, float valve and adjusted the floats to the correct height and it still pours gas out the overflow.
One thing I did notice is that after the bike is off it keeps running fuel out unless I shut off the gas. Start it up and it clears out and revs hard fast and clean? I turn the gas back on and it keeps running out. . If I really hammered the throtle I could get it out of the bog, but everytime I looked down or put it on the stand and shut it off , fuel was running out the overflow hose. Decided once it was warmed. All the fuel comes through and is shut off by that float valve, so overflow means it's not stopping the flow for some reason. As far as all the other jets, those should be screwed in and snug.
Normally the stock jets are quite rich for your conditions and need to be adjusted from there for proper running. It was at about 15mm before I took I adjusted it. Also, setting the float height can be tricky, if problems persist even after double checking this you might try even lower just to see if this affects it at all. Between his super oily premix and wet ign components maybe it just wasn't running right? Another quick test while you have the carb off and the bowl off the bottom, with the float installed, turn the carb upside down so the wieght of the float holds the needle in the seat and see if you can blow through the fuel inlet. The quantity specified is the amount we recommend you purchase to be able to fit the parts correctly.
The only thing I did when I got it running was switch over to my roughly 40:1 H1R premix from whatever he had and however old his stuff was. With the adjuster screw backed off two full rotations the bike idles correctly now and the throttle response seems much better. If gasoline can be smelled in the work area, a potential hazard exists. Any help would be appreciated. Started the bike up and within 3-4 mins of riding it is doing the same thing.
What I was wondering is what are the basics for setting this carb up. Bought a 2000 rm 125, needed top end. I have the carb apart right now and have just adjusted the float height to the stock recommendation of 16mm. I decided after the bike sitting for 3 weeks and us having super deep cold etc. I'm pretty sure that carb has a drain screw on the bowl, take it out and clean the tip of the screw and the area down in the bowl where the screw seats. So I took it apart and looked at the float and float valve, because that is where everyone says the problem is. This will help in troubleshooting and determining the parts to have on hand when rebuilding the top end.
I'm still in the 80s lol. Is it possible something got wet. Started the bike up and within 3-4 mins of riding it is doing the same thing. I keep reading these era suzooks do not idle well? It's not happy idling when it warms up either. The bike is bone stock no mods for power. Cause it shreds now and is not losing coolant. Now its blown up, and the asshat painted it purple.