Hello everyone, I was directed over here from Pirate. Before I put on the new one. Anyone know if this error could be related to my problem? Okay, I got it running good again. Even the knock sensor code hasn't come back on. It should work for a while. Even though its getting good spark at the plugs could it simply be a faulty distributor? P1444, Evap Purge and P0300 multiple misfires.
Remember, these are manufacturer specific codes only. The knock sensor code is probably a bad connector at the sensor, since it has been around for awhile on the vehicle it could have finally gave up the ghost. Check the hoses around the charcoal canister in the rear driver's side of the vehicle, some might be clogged. This line should be blown out with compressed air I used a shop vac and some duct tape to suck the charcoal out. The code definitions are a good starting point when determining the cause of the service engine light but where do you go from there? There's no air issues that I can see.
If it detects a leak, it sets a code. It just turns over and doesn't even try to fire up, as if it was completely out of gas but that's not the case. The codes are displayed in numerical order starting with the lowest and ending with the highest. I may have your answer. When the valve goes bad, it allows the fuel vapor to feed into the engine without any control - basically, it affects idle, but not much else - the valve gets stuck open, it is normally closed. But after fiddling with all the vacuum hoses and two very stuck coolant hose that were hidden behind the manifold I wish I hadn't. You have spark at the plugs then it is not a fusible link issue.
Plus additional Instructional and Directional Diagrams. That allows fresh air into the canister. I would hook it up to a timing light and see what it says. Is there another test I can perform on the distributor to determine if its at fault before I start throwing parts at it? It's hard to diagnose a car over a computer. I am still getting random stalls and hard starts.
I'm a Jeep guy and if I was working on a 4. Replace or fix these two items should do the trick. The red diode will flash for 0. Diagnostic Display Code 0—1 should be indicated. The same type of problem is going on, it cranks but does not start for about 10-15 then runs like nothing is wrong. This is an easy replacement. But I'm a little stumped any advise would be greatly appreciated! Plus, after reading how hard it was to get to the 6 plug.
A scan tool will be needed to get the code for the failure, so the proper repairs can be made. Refer to our for definitions on all other Nissan diagnostic trouble codes. Hi everybody, I figured I'd share my saga here in hopes of some advice and to possibly help anyone else with a similar problem yes, I searched the forums and found one post with no solution. During an open loop condition, the red inspection lamp stays off. The connector may have a removable cover.
Your Evap Canister is bad. We do our best to update these Nissan check engine light codes as frequently as possible. I put in a new crank position sensor and it did not seems to solve the problem. Just want to share my experience with P1444 code. But it just up and quit the other day, now it won't start at all. Just keep doing it, until you can't blow air through it.
My 98 pathfinder recently developed the problem of stalling out for a about 10 seconds after being started cold and driven for a short time. I replaced the valve - which is fricking expensive. Then there will be a delay 0. I got Nissan to warranty the first bad valve. I would like to be more certain that could be the problem before going forward.