Old brake fluid is the 1 reason for caliper failure. Road tested the truck and found that the front left caliper was still dragging, but the right side was intact. Have a bucket or crate to set the caliper on so you don't stretch the brake hose. It's okay to use a screwdriver or a shim of some sort to get leverage, but be careful to not break it. Remove the eight hub plate nuts.
You may notice your steering pulling to one side of the road,because one hub is locked in. Not sure if they are part of the solution? I would recommend using a heavy rubber mallet, or a piece of wood when loosening the rotor, not a metal hammer. Pump the brake pedals a few times before driving. Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines by bleeding the brakes until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. This article applies to the Ford F-150 2004-2014 and F-250, F-350 Super Duty 2005-2014. Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Preload the bearing to 3.
Follow removal procedure in reverse order. Firmly pull the wheel bearing off the front axle. Install stabilizer bar link nut. Well, the 2 pound sledge might have killed 'em. Pop the brake assembly off of it which usually requires driving out two diamond shaped rubber pins, replace those as well.
Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. A pair of pliers will help you to remove the cotter pin in the hole at the end of the steering spindle. If it's really rusted, you might need to use a puller. Lower the jack and remove the front wheel lug nuts using a lug wrench counterclockwise. Beat it and then beat it some more - heat: no luck. Replacing or not, take the opportunity to check those bearings and bearing seals while it's apart : Answer.
No holes on these rotors I already checked for that also. Then, press the wheel bearing onto the front axle until snug. Make sure the gears of the hub and axle are greased first. Once the pins are removed, use a screw driver to force back the dual pistons so that the pads are free to move. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. Reinstall the calipers and tighten the 18mm bolts.
The other side I took off the whole unit bearing and rotor assy, then took to a 20 ton press. I did this with a hammer. Remove front disc brake rotor 1125. I am not that familiar with the F350 4x4, but if the rotor is touching the brake components and you have good pads , the problem is not the ball joints or the u-joint. Step 8 - Replace the wheels Repeat steps 2 through 7 for the other side of the car.
Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. This also resulted in the … bearing coming off unexpectedly which I had to repack in grease myself. This article applies to the Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty. I believe your front brakes are working just fine, but they're working too hard 'cause your rear brakes aren't working. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 D80L-1013-A or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. On Sunday, I replaced the left caliper again, re-bled the front, drove the truck for several miles and then once again checked the front- No more dragging caliper! Related Article: - Ford Trucks.
This common F-150 truck issue might be the culprit. Every once in a while it is nice to roll out the tool set, jack up the truck, and do a little wrenching. I may just end up replacing the rotors. Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle. Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub.
Once the wheel is removed, you'll need to removed the caliper pins. Remove the brake caliper, there are two Allen bolts retaining it from the rear. Is that, two rotors on one side or two rotors on both sides? Make sure the wheel hub and the front disc brake rotor braking and mounting surfaces are clean. More oil, more hammering, finally it came loose. Says it is that simple.