I just never tought about that before because all mustangs ive had I always put offroad x or h pipe on it and that light never came up for me, but ok since the code says there is too much voltage or high voltage in the preassure side to the dpfe sensor then that means there is too much flow of anything specific in the exhaust or is it too much fuel or air, and I can instal the cats back on it if I really have to but even though I have the mil eliminators that will still come on, is there a way to check back preasure in the exhaust and see if I have possibly too much, that would probably give me a good head start on what to do next and what to fix on the car next right, I mean if I get the back preasure from the exhaust and its way higher then it suppose to be then im just going to get some catalyc converters and weld them in my x pipe no biggie if its really what this code saying and if it would bring it back to normal, I really appreciate your replies and hope you can still help me out on this P1401 Ford codde issue, again big thanks, Martin. Fortunately, many problems that hinder the start-up of the engine can be quickly identified as well as replaced to get your car up and running again. For fuel pressure, just unbolt the regulator, place an inverted clear plastic cup over it, stand back and energize her! Is your car leaving you stranded? I currently also drive a 95 gt mustang and when you turn the vehicle over you hear everything engage before starting it like the fuel pump and injectors but I don't hear anything with the 96 cobra. I hate electronics, this is why I went carb and I'm a programmer, I'm supposed to like computers. I've not had much time to work with it.
I figure it most have cleaned them up, after about 3 days of cranking a few times and letting it sit it started right up. Did you have a spark plug out to check the spark? Normal battery voltage should be approximately 12 volts or higher. Battery is finally starting to wear down of course, because we keep trying to start it to diagnose it. Connect each of your digital multimeter probes to each wire at the crank position sensor plug. We are thinking we may as well tow the thing home, to let it die in peace. This article applies to the V6 Ford Mustang 1994-2004. The spark is generated at the plug when it receives a signal sent by the ignition system.
I take it that some relays are even under seats. You should check the fuel pressure from the shrader valve on the fuel rail, near the alternator. To listen for the injectors opening and closing? Anyone else with any suggestions? If this works but it didnt work before, get some 80 grit and get down where the starter primary wire is, unbolt it, sand both the terminal and the wire connector and reattach. Even if it jumped a few, it would sputter and backfire. My owners' manual warns of this potential problem. It wasn't until 96 that mustangs came stock with a 6 quart oil pan on the 4.
The brain can be throwing the signal and the relay terminals are not receiving the signals, so the relays cannot switch. Testing battery voltage with digital multimeter. You can use a multimeter if you have one, or just take it to an auto parts store for them to evaluate. Cant seem to find anyone with a fuel pressure gauge that we can borrow, and like we said we are tapped out here. With 1994 to 2004 V6 Mustang models coming.
The car still won't start. Then when you try to start it with the rust in the cylinders it can destroy the rings and cause compression loss. It sounds like you've replaced that sensor already. EricTheCarGuy Can't start your Mustang? Just hook it up to the injector harness huh? If it's a mighty spray, you've got pressure. So, let me know what you think. If your battery is good but the engine does not crank, proceed to Step 2. It may be something as simple as that.
Troubleshooting it would depend if it has the Speed Density Update. Thinking the old girl has just died Praying for a miracle. A small wire piercing probe may be necessary for good contact. I am sure that this is because we have worn it out trying to start it. Although you have replaced some relays, you need to check your plugins for these 2 relays.
Well, I did a search on this one cause I figured maybe it has happened to others and I got some information, but not enough to fix the problem. Disconnect the electrical harness plug at the coil pack and probe the power pin while a friend cranks the engine. At either the starter relay or starter solenoid, use a remote starter switch or screwdriver to jump power from the battery to the starter. The starter turns over strong and continues to turn over strong. I know that you didn't say anything about pulling apart anything but I konw one of the lines is a ground and you never know it might have just come off. Hmmmm, at this point we could tow it home, and try to replace the starter our self cause we know a shop will charge a lot and then hope we can get back to diagnosing the original problem, whether that be a fuel regulator or injectors. I tried my spare key, and it didnt work either.
Similarly, a low battery typically will not supply sufficient power to the powertrain control module that controls various engine functions, such as spark and injector pulse widths. The dashboard shows theft which is blinking but the fobs won't deactivate it or unlock the doors or trunk. The aftermarket alarm has been on since dec 2003 so its nothing new. Pull out and replace with part from AutoZone. A battery that is low or completely dead will not have enough power for the starter to crank the engine over.