Inspect the filter and transmission intake port for the filter seal and remove it. So, I siphoned out 2. I don't know who told you that, but they were wrong to say it, and to call it that. Using a ratchet and socket, loosen all of the transmission pan bolts, about one-half to three-quarters of the way out. The system components that need special attention are the fluid cooler, the auxiliary cooler, cooler lines, and the cooler bypass valve. I just know that is what the owner's manual recommends.
I have heard from multiple sources that flushing will cause big problems for a high mileage transmission. I may have some data for an age old question about transmission fluid changes and flushes for high mileage transmissions. Frustrated and befuddled, I added some Lucas transmission fix, but logic doesn't support that may be a solution at all. George Do you know if the original Ford fluid is full synthetic or is a synthetic blend? Wipe around the perimeter of the pan lip and transmission with a lint-free shop rag to remove loose road grime and grit that could contaminate the pan. You could disconnect the return line by the front cooler, and place a bucket with a hose in that area. You might have to start, and stop the engine several times to keep up with the pace.
I think it's semi, but I can't say for sure. BrooklynBay: Per our previous exchange, i took your advice that all fluid breaks down and will not last indefinitely. Your transmission filter keeps the fluid in your transmission clean and free of debris. Tools Used: Tools, Jack, 4 jack stands, Large drain pan, Lint-free shop rags, Ratchet, Socket set, Rubber or leather mallet, Gasket scraper, Solvent, Inch-pound torque wrench Removal Park the Explorer on firm, level ground. Look under the vehicle and check for leaks around the transmission pan.
I only want to stop the future people thinking that the answer for them is to do nothing. You may need to stick a finger or a ratchet extension into the intake port to remove the O-ring seal. George More of the bad myths continue here. My brother just had is 130,000 mile tranny flushed, with no ill affects. Do you have a big catch oil pan under? With all this talk it make me worry.
Here are some of the postings referencing varnish which prompted this thread. Always use jack stands to minimize the risk of severe bodily harm or death, from a falling vehicle. With 116,800 miles and me not being the original owner I thought it wise to change it all out. Use caution to not deform the pan while using the hammer, and avoid prying the pan off as this can deform the pan's sealing surface and cause a leak. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk.
I don't want any bad parts in my vehicles. . If the trans is going to die soon, new fluid won't save it, nor will it cause it. The dealer authorized maintenance schedule doesn't specify a service interval for the filter, but if you've gone to the trouble of dropping the pan to drain the fluid, go ahead and replace the filter while you're in there. And, there were too many examples which advised against doing the flush. I have done it all different ways, and never had any problems after any fluid change. Finding or stopping things early is why I basically never break down.
Do not apply any sealant; this gasket must be applied clean and dry. Normal service on the transmission includes replacing the fluid and filter, but if repeated transmission problems occur, have the transmission cooling system flushed with a heated cooler-line flusher to remove contaminants from the system. The primary topic here is to reflect on numerous postings which relate to high mileage transmissions that fail immediately after a fluid flush or change. Mobil 1, and Amsoil are good brands that you can't go wrong with. Wipe around the perimeter of the pan lip and transmission with a lint-free shop rag to remove loose road grime and grit that could contaminate the pan.
I seen many Mercon -V fluids in reading the bottle that said they were a synthetic blend. This may cause you to tip and dump the pan when you are lowering it. To be safe, I put the old transmission fluid back in, after straining it. The drain pan must be of a larger outside dimension than the transmission pan in order to capture all of the fluid. I have gone over most of the other fluids on the truck already.