Are you hearing any hisses coming from the dash area, or under the hood? It is similar in design to the 4R44E except that it has an increased maximum torque capacity of 550 lbs. The video below shows a 1999 ford ranger automatic but if you check you might have the same sensor. If it still misses keep moving the spare one to the next coil pack until you find it. Why does it shift extremely hard. If the vehicle sits for long periods of time, it is possible that the seal can dry up and become brittle. As a shop owner, it is in your best interest to learn about some of the most common problems found in this transmission.
Remove the rest of the bolts in the converter housing. To everyone that has a 90's or newer Ford with the E4od transmission. It doesnt stay in 4th gear and downshifts on its own but if i take it out of overdrive by the O D button it drives fine. I suggest you to go through help links mentioned below with appropriate solutions to confirm the problem :------ How to trouble shoot speedometer? There are seperate contacts inside the brake switch. This does not happen every time. Just ordered factory book and I'm thinking it might be accumulator spring piston? Move the drain pan under the extension housing.
No one seems to know what the problem is with the brake system on these vehicles. Tip: If its a speed sensor problem, you may find that the speedo isn't working very well. The reason for your repeat problems could be due to the factory control strategy for this transmission. It has 232K on it and wasn't sure about the trans fluid, so I changed it with a filter. The torque converter is unlocking. One way you can pin point it is to buy one coil pack and replace one. In either case, the solenoid will need to be replaced with a new one.
Electronic tunes also modify the way the transmission shifts. But the engine won't catch. Last updated on January 5th, 2008. Going directly from first to 3rd will cause a harsh shift. A re-manufactured transmission will also include a ; three years compared to an average 90 days for a rebuilt transmission.
Still working in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts. If it's getting false speeds then it will shut down the motor when the speed gets to high and allow it to run as the speeds fall jumping speed odometer needle. If you don't believe me drive down the highway at 60 mph and activate your hazard lights. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the bottom of the converter housing, using the appropriate socket. By the sounds of your problem i would lean towards a vacuum problem. Unplug the neutral safety switch wiring harness, located at the back of the engine compartment, at its inline connector.
The transmission revs high in all the forward gears. Rapid wear of rings and cylinder walls, which can be caused by buildup in the grooves behind piston rings. Prompt engine fluid checkups are highly possible with the use of an efficient oil analyzer, which enables mechanics to easily assess and determine whatever engine problems need fixing. This type of shift is often reffered to as a slide-bump shift. By doing that it ends up destroying your transmission! Also you could have a problem in your transmission's accumulator body. The problem is most likely that the torque converter clutch is not engaging. A code should be present when the issue is present because the computer looks at the valve electrical operation current signiture as a way to tell when they malfunction.
Brake switch is actually several switches inside. The two things I would look at are the front seal and the hub on the torque converter. It will either shift erratically or not shift out of say 2nd gear, so that the cars engine can't get damaged based on what signal the speed sensor is sending the computer. They differ from a rebuilt transmission in the fact that they are as good as a new transmission at a greatly reduced price and often include modifications and upgrades that make them much more durable. The pan will tip as the bolts are loosened, allowing the fluid to drain into the pan. Slide the drain pan under the transmission pan. I would first remove both of them and clean them up with an electronic specific cleaner.
The easyest part would be the sensor that mounts on the rear axile I believe and should cost less than 30. A re-manufactured transmission also comes with a : three years compared to 90 days for a rebuilt transmission. They are just a quick away from helping you out. When the fluid gets hot, it thins down. Remove the two bolts that attach the rear engine mount and insulator. When the signal drops the Engine management computer thinks the speed is real slow and raises the transmission pressure.
The easyest part would be the sensor that mounts on the rear axile I believe and should cost less than 30. Not very difficult to replace. Your first step should be to scan the computer for trouble codes. Seems There Is No Solutions. Reverse gear is purely mechanical and hydraulic and the computer neither controls nor monitors its application or performance.