Be sure to stop with the mark on the tire exactly dead-center of the contact patch, just like with the first mark. If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly. One harness that will match up to any engine harness and support any accessory that might be available. When the lockout count reaches 0, it doesn't self-destruct; you just can't change it again. My truck had 304,742 miles on it when I did this repair. Refer to the following Diagnostic Procedure for details.
Check the original tire size on your door sticker. The cigar lighter ground wire might reach. To abort the changes and maintain the lockout count, turn the key off before pressing Reset. That's according to a thread on here, and come to think of it I have never seen one of these trucks with over 400 on it. They want one dash harness that works with everything. Dealers and 800 663-9974 for Canadian Dealers. If operation is not as specified, replace speedometer.
If battery voltage does not exist, repair appropriate wire from fuse panel. But, remember: the only reason to change it is for a tire size change. You can see yours by holding the Reset button while turning the key forward to Run, then release Reset. If battery voltage does not exist, repair appropriate wire from fuse panel. If your rig has 150,000 miles on it and you purchased a used module with 350,000 miles on it that is that, nothing you can do about it.
If odometer does not accumulate mileage, go to next step. Ford doesn't want to design, spec out, test, and install three or four different dash wiring harnesses in trucks depending on what options are installed. If odometer accumulates mileage, go to step 9. Press the Select button to continue decreasing the constant by 0. But how to access it wasn't fully described. Replace fuses and repair shorted wires, if necessary. If all items listed above check good, replace the Instrument Cluster Assembly.
Does anti-lock lamp on dash go out after self-test? I have read the checking backprobing procedures and have found out on step six that I have voltage in the off position and when ignition turns on I have 003 volts -it is actually backwards then listed. Replace fuses and repair shorted wires if necessary. I figured I might as well document my journey and share the experience. If resistance is greater than one ohm, repair appropriate wire. Do the select and reset buttons work normally? You can check the constant without grounding that wire. Refer to the test equipment user's manual for additional information.
Also mileage is fairly irrellavent with these trucks if they are over 300,000 miles or km, which mine is at 362,000, because when they hit 400,000 miles or km they automatically return to 300,000, so either way I would guess mine is incorrect. If speedometer and odometer still do not operate, go to next step. Be sure to use the correct desoldering tools for surface mount and through hole components. I'd start by ohming out the harness and check for a dead short or loose plug. Press and release the select button.
It also allowed me to convert to the later electronic cruise control servo, which was a big improvement over the older vacuum servo which starved itself when going uphill at high speed. The pointer would normally prove out, or sweep from the lower to upper pointer stop and back again. Am I doomed to replace this board due to a bad processor? If odometer does not accumulate mileage, go to next step. Then I just let it run - no smoke got out, and the guy who bought it said it worked fine. That seems odd but I'll believe yaIt makes perfect sense.
If runout is more than 0. If odometer display is on and digits appear normal, go to next step. Re-assemble everything by following the steps in reverse. If indicated speed does not increase, go to step 8 Inspect fuses. It keeps using that constant forever. When the constant reaches 5.
Does the pointer smoothly prove out, or sweep from 0 to maximum speed then back to 0? For more precision, use a bubble level to set the mark plumb below the center of the hubcap each time. Any slight dents, chips, etc. Getting another unit from a junkyard seems mute, and a new one from Ford is absolutely outrageous! Damaged, missing or bent teeth Metal chips on speed sensor Open or shorted sensor Improper gap between sensor and speed sensor ring Refer to Section 06-09A for additional information. Pull it out, clean it up and reinstall. Everytime I've seen a speedometers trans issue it has either been a bad vss, broken or frayed wire, and sometimes a tps but I don't believe that is the problem. If operation is not as specified, replace speedometer.
For all models except Aerostar, go to next step. If available, a frequency counter may be connected to Pin 4 speed in and Pin 5 speed in -. What I have done differently is provide the actual replacement parts list. If voltage does not increase as specified, repair speed sensor circuit. I'm looking to replace the psom in my truck. So no extra wires huh? If speedometer and odometer still do not operate, go to next step.