The idle control valve, also commonly referred to as the idle air control valve, is an engine management component that is found in one form or another on the majority of road going vehicles. So I look at forum I found answer, it said turn adjust on flat screw to half turn on throttle. I guess I now need to remove the throttle body and replace, or clean, the iacv. And I have no idea what it's doing there or how it got there! I did the same thing about a month ago with no help. It is easy to get there if you use a short standard screwdriver and take the filter tube off of the carb there, near the front of the engine.
Sometimes that will do the trick, but if it is severely built up with carbon, you will actually have to tear it down. It is not heavy relatively, but it is a little awkward. Problem comes and goes and does not seem related to the engine temperature. After your done setting the idle and kick-up idle, return the tach and get yuor money back. It is there to bypass air around the throttle plate when the engine is cold. I will have to call and see if they remember what they did and didn't do. On the side of the intake manifold, near where the rubber intake hose connects to the throttle body, there is a screw.
Thank you both for your suggestions. Before reinstalling, I unplugged the iacv port it was connected to, as well as the upper port it came from. Irregular idle speed One of the most common symptoms commonly associated with a problematic idle air control valve is irregular idle speed. Chris answered 4 years ago that vacuum pump is exactly the one I have, and will help you tremendously. Apparently the plastic wears down after years of use. The easiest way to test to see if the booster is the problem is to unhook the vacum hose from the booster. You can also pull the bed off.
The fuel pump will be near the bottom, and looks like a small electric motor. This will lower your cold start idle. I didn't get around to doing anything until today, when I replaced the thermostat, thinking it was bad and possibly affecting the situation. Tough, rugged and reliable, your Pickup doesn't back down from any challenge. I still can't find it, and I took the truck to the mechanic who I thought had told me he cleaned it. I got a decent deal on one via Amazon. Idle air control valve only controls air into the engine while idling.
The only issue I encountered is the new booster made the brakes overly powerful and touchy. After getting the engine warm and having the loping start when touching the brake, I tried to look and see if I could find a leak while the engine was running. I will have to either have it towed or take a risky drive to the shop, which isn't open until Tuesday. Stumbled around and realized the breaks are related to the problem. The hook engages a split-head bolt that allows you to crank the spare tire down.
Truth is, no coolant has been getting into my iacv! Truck: 92 xtra cab, 22re, 4x4, 190,000 miles Thanks in advance, Meatloaf I'm having the same problem with my '94 22R-E. With the truck on turn on the ac and notice the rpm jump. So does anybody know what's up with this? If you re-watch the video I sent you earlier, you will see the part that gets stuck open or closed due to carbon build up. If I had a second vehicle, I would go forward because it doesn't seem like it would be that difficult. There is another system that bumps up the idle speed when the engine is cold. Lastly, push brake pedal while engine running, then stop engine with pedal still depressed for 30 seconds, if there is no change in pedal reserve travel, the booster is all well, and air tight.
It does this so that the idle will drop down when you are slowing down, like coming to a stop sign, etc. I screwed that back in and adjusted the idle accordingly. It would be adviseable to replace the entire pump and bracket assembly as well as all 7 screws and the gasket if at all feaseable. Also did a compression test 150 in all cyl. By cleaning the area, and blocking that off with duct tape and then replacing the air chamber, you can test to see if this is causing your surge. Make sure that the new plugs are properly gapped and timing is set right on the distributor side, intake hose isnt leaking. A brake booster for a toyota pickup can be hard to find but you can also use one from a comparable 4runner.
On the 1995 and later models 5. Keep it in great shape by installing a new idle air control valve for Toyota Pickup from AutoZone. I've no tach, so I adjusted the idle speed by ear, and it seems to running very good again. Whether you load up your Pickup for work or for play, it's always ready for any task. If I rev the motor at a low idle 1500 rpm and hold it the motor will shake and stumble. I then ran water under pressure through the top port the one behind the thermostat that often gets plugged and the water flowed freely out the iacv! When the it can cause all sorts of issues with the vehicle, and in some cases may even render it undrivable.